Today we celebrate 88 years since Traseul Comănescu (Muchia Nordică) (Turnul Seciului) first ascent, 59 years since Santinela Padinei Popii (Padina Popii) first ascent

Fisura Gălbenelelor 3A, 6+ (5+, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 10.07.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 3A
Mandatory grade: 5+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6+
Quickdraws: Ten
Type: Classic route

 Fisura Gălbenelelor 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: N-E
Length: 3 pitches
Altitude: 2230 m
Height: 180 m
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsCrackChimneyGrassPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Niculae Baticu, Ion Trandafir, Dan Popescu, Sorin Tulea
Date: 13.10.1935


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Trail not recommended for winter or summer, it is very, very grassy.

LK 1: Get up on a chimneyule? (the original is on the right and go around the wire, mathematically, of the rift; it's not illegal, and it's very crumbly), where we could find a to from about 5 meters, which is the passage on the 6th. After you beat him go on to the pitch more easily (we can find an anchor with the rope on the right-hand side), then up to the grouping on the right side, 2 expansion bolts. 6-a, 35-m.

LK 2: Go up in a circus of a grass (in winter, frozen and full of snow). It is provided by a hospital, and it consists in the passage of the belly of the pot. Continue on easy terrain up to the grouping at the 2-expansion bolts, on the left-hand side in a chimneyule?. 6, and 45 meters.

LC-3: it Is the most difficult of the route. Going up some rapids. The first anchor is high enough, but that we can't put a nut in the crack. The crack turns vertical, secure the well with the hands, and the 2 expansion bolts. From the second to the insured, we get in the traverseu to the right of the approximately 5 m, and then obliquely left, up on a chimneyule? quickly and with no insurance, what do we get in the gap under the stone embedded in it. In the second of to there side of the story straight up into the sky, but the passage is not difficult, a little bit fragile, and I don't have any insurance, but you can beat them hands up/put your mobile. 6+, 28 m.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - N. Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - W Kargel, 2000
Mircea Ordean - http://mirceaordean.blogspot.ro/2013/06/istorie-munte-albumul-sorin-tulea-iii.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: He goes up to the Refuge of the Co?tila the Valley of the Co?tilei, you have to cross the Valley, Marigold, who's a stay close to the mountain pass of Marigolds. 30 to 40 feet below the gap and then turn left on to the narrow strip Strungii, on the basis of the Shoulder of the Marigolds. It goes on a belt about 100 m until you reach a valley. This is the beginning of our journey. More of the top 7-8 m, it is seen, and the first to spit on your left-hand side.
Retreat route: All of the trails over the mountain pass over the Shoulder. From here, you can:
let's just keep going up until the Girdle of the High Co?tilei (part seldom attended, and it will become crumbly). It is strongly recommended to have the hands and the hammer.
- 4 boosters from the 30's to the trail that connects the Valley of the Scoru?ilor the mountain pass of Marigolds. The first booster is recommended to be done right away below the mountain pass of the Shoulder (5 feet away) on a platform 2mx2m, otherwise we run the risk of blocking the strings in the us. All of the rapelurile are made of expansion bolts with a mailon.
- 4 boosters for 30m the Crack of Marigolds in them to its list in a single braid with a rope.

It comes down then to the Valley, Marigold, or it is combined with the Flue of the Fire, up to the crossing into the Valley of the Co?tilei, and the place Co?tila.

Topo

Topo

Fisura Gălbenelelor
Fisura Gălbenelelor

Pictures


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Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



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Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Mihai Sava - 23.02.2017

Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: He goes up to the Refuge of the Co?tila the Valley of the Co?tilei, you have to cross the Valley, Marigold, who's a stay close to the mountain pass of Marigolds. 30 to 40 feet below the gap and then turn left on to the narrow strip Strungii, on the basis of the Shoulder of the Marigolds. It goes on a belt about 100 m until you reach a valley. This is the beginning of our journey. More of the top 7-8 m, it is seen, and the first to spit on your left-hand side.
Retreat route: All of the trails over the mountain pass over the Shoulder. From here, you can:
let's just keep going up until the Girdle of the High Co?tilei (part seldom attended, and it will become crumbly). It is strongly recommended to have the hands and the hammer.
- 4 boosters from the 30's to the trail that connects the Valley of the Scoru?ilor the mountain pass of Marigolds. The first booster is recommended to be done right away below the mountain pass of the Shoulder (5 feet away) on a platform 2mx2m, otherwise we run the risk of blocking the strings in the us. All of the rapelurile are made of expansion bolts with a mailon.
- 4 boosters for 30m the Crack of Marigolds in them to its list in a single braid with a rope.

It comes down then to the Valley, Marigold, or it is combined with the Flue of the Fire, up to the crossing into the Valley of the Co?tilei, and the place Co?tila.

Equipment


Quickdraws: Ten
Cams and nuts: Ten
Additional equipment: Ten
Fisura Gălbenelelor

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