On 19.10.1933 Matei Schenn was born.

Marele Tavan al Gălbenelelor (The great Ceiling of the Marigolds) 5A, (4, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 24.03.2019

General characteristics

Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 4
Aid climbing grade: A1
Type: Classic route

 Marele Tavan al Gălbenelelor 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: N
Length: 2 pitches
Altitude: 2100 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:


PitonsCams/NutsAid climbingRoofPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Walter Kargel, Radu Slăvoacă, Andrei Ghiţescu
Date: 16.06.1968

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route is the most imposing ceiling of the Bucegi and one of the most imposing in the country. The route was started by Andrei Ghitescu and Walter Kargel in 1952, but abandoned the first after the first 2-3 feet, being ranked as unapproachable, unable to beat the pitons. Walter Kargel returned together with Radu Slavoaca in 1968, finishing it in 4 inputs.

LC 1: For advance they used thin blades to the ceiling proper, long by 13m. This is followed by a dihedral vertical, with a crack and tufts of grass. They regroup under a small beetle.

LC 2: pass a small beetle with the help of the 2 pitons, then climb diagonally to the base of the Forks. Regroup in the R2 of the Forks. We can continue another 3 lengths on Forks up in the ridge.
Information source
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - W Kargel, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 52.2" E 25° 29' 45.6"    



Marele Tavan al Gălbenelelor


Marele Tavan al Gălbenelelor

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Marele Tavan al Gălbenelelor

Users who climbed the route

Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980

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GPS: N 45° 25' 52.2" E 25° 29' 45.6"    


Marele Tavan al Gălbenelelor