Phoenix (Phoenix) 5B
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.11.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 23.06.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A0
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă: Cătălin Crețu 
Length: 5 pitches
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCrackGrassFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Marius Albu, Crist. Cătălin, Cr. Bărgăoanu, V. Antohi
Date: 1986


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

It is a route with difficult steps, has some beautiful passages and worth the climb, especially because it is in an area something more out of the circuit of the mountaineers. Unfortunately, the redevelopment was done with an excess of zeal.

LC 1: At the beginning we get a few expansion bolts, and then get on a portion crumbly where the assurances are rare. We're under a crack buried in the grass, ask a friend, and regroup at the two angles that we can double up with a hex.

LC 2: we Start the second length with sprai?uri healthy, a crack wide, which surplombeaza. Here appear the first expansoare made with an excess of zeal. The anchors are mounted near the cracks where they could easily put nuts or frienduri, in some places, on the sides, the distance between expansion bolts is 1.5 meters. After overcoming the rift out and we left, over a plate, step it up a bit and find a pool with the chain. With 60m you might get to this pool out of a single length.

LC 3: we Start initially on an area with more vegetation, then cross the right long. Insurance are more rare here, but on the traverseu is called a chord of a fixed whose role I don't see him. The passages are of degree 6, the outlets easy to find and plentiful. We get to overhanging climbing that needs to be overcome. Here are the expansion bolts of the 2 in 2m. Get artificial overhanging climbing, and then overcome a passage very nice, free, up in the pool.

LC 4: Start with a traverseu the left and the overcoming of a fine cracks, difficult. Steps free alternate with those of the artificial, in the first part. The above move freely, climb a crack and a few sills of the cliff and we get into a pool chest of drawers, alfata a wider one, that wide.

LC 5: Start with a face flushed, who passes it with an artificial h, from the spit in the spit. Follow a crack short, beautiful, and then another something broader, a chimneyule? and a ridge, and we're up.
Information source
Nomenclatorul traseelor - 2000
Poză 2 - Vlad Condratov - https://picasaweb.google.com/107730608871785823336/SugauPhoenixIunie2014?noredirect=1
http://explorer.org.ro/index.php?option=com_comprofiler&task=userProfile&user=64

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Retreat route: Retragrea do it on the legs. Down in the opposite direction pereteleui we climbed, we get a bottleneck where we see a few black goats and descend through a chimney wide to the marked path.

Pictures


Sursă: Cătălin Crețu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Sursă: Cătălin Crețu

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Map



Retreat route: Retragrea do it on the legs. Down in the opposite direction pereteleui we climbed, we get a bottleneck where we see a few black goats and descend through a chimney wide to the marked path.

Equipment


Sursă: Cătălin Crețu

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