On 19.10.1933 Matei Schenn was born.

Creasta Hornului Roşu 3B, 6a+ (4c/4c+, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.11.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 26.05.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 3B
Mandatory grade: 4c/4c+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 6a+
Type: Classic route

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Length: 4 pitches
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsRidgeLoose rocks

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Matei Schenn, Emilian Cristea
Date: 1956
Repaired date: 2005


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1: After climbing 3-4 km to meet the first braid. The length of the keep, on a chimney-piece, narrow, security, expansion bolts, am I on the left-hand side, the line of the route is visible and obvious from the start. Regrouping at the end of the first length on the expansion bolts and chain. 30, rank 5+



LK 2: Keep a little left on the crack done with expansion bolts and also to clean the old one. In the one to whom it is a rope of old in order to move up to the ventilator. Is a bit stretched out where it isn't supposed to be long-term, or you are pumping. It comes from a small beetle at a time, on the right, and then we'll be on a platform at the base of the chimney from the deep well on the left-hand side. As this piece to get into the pool, expansion bolts and chain. Note that the pool set up here is actually a third pool on the sketch attached to it. From the pool you can go in the other two countries, the Horn of the Red, and the Face of the Big Horn, Red, two of the first lengths being common. 45 m grade 7 - the crack, where the outline shows up in A1, and a step up from the 6 to the funnel end.


LC-3: From the pool it goes 1-2 yards to the left on to a wider one, that go right up to the ridge. Here is the vertical, and the long passages. The sockets are of sufficient insurance in the same way. This is the best with the length of the climb, beautiful, and sustainable. There is a pool of intermediate in the two hands, and a piece of string, but if you go ahead and get it over tap?anul is what it is, after 10 meters we have a pool with expansion bolts and a chain. 50, level 6+



LK 4: Scroll through the crest of the climb, and the desca?ara ?ancurile of the ridge, on the ridge, it offers to the savage, and the hands of the old, but in good and tight. After the completion of the crest goes on the right side, where it is the first hospital in the length of the chimney is very wide. After this, the chimney goes into the junipers where they are belay station. The grouping is made in the cushion with the assurance of the head of the string to s. 35m, grade 4+



LC 5: the Is at free on a very obvious trail through the juniper trees dwarf up to the top. It's a long light, which does not require the insurance coverage.



Note: for the outline I scored a 7-length of the rope for them the obvious expansion bolts, with the chain 4. The distance between them the current is more than enough for me to half ropes of 60m. The trail is in the whole rather fragile, and requires careful attention to the background and to the other teams climbing below us.
Information source

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: In the town of Red Lake, on the left of the hotel Guest (DN12C, Red Lake 535502) is the marking of the blue triangle, and the Memorial to the Wild by the (the via ferrata). The climb is immediately to the right of the route of the Memorial of the Wild by the. The trail is marked with paint on the wall.
Retreat route: The cross that marks the top of the Mountain Suhardul Small, is the marking of the blue triangle, which takes you back to the Hotel.

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Wild Ferenc

Pictures


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Users who climbed the route


Radu Vaida Muntean - 18.05.2020, Vara
- 18.05.2020https://www.facebook.com/media/set?set=a.727400...
Radu Vaida Muntean - 18.05.2020, Vara
- 18.05.2020https://www.facebook.com/media/set?set=a.727400...
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900

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Map



Access route: In the town of Red Lake, on the left of the hotel Guest (DN12C, Red Lake 535502) is the marking of the blue triangle, and the Memorial to the Wild by the (the via ferrata). The climb is immediately to the right of the route of the Memorial of the Wild by the. The trail is marked with paint on the wall.
Retreat route: The cross that marks the top of the Mountain Suhardul Small, is the marking of the blue triangle, which takes you back to the Hotel.

Equipment


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