Furcile (The Forks) 4A
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  • Description
  • Pictures (3)
  • Diaries/Climbs (25)
  • Video (2)
  • Map
  • Equipment
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 16.03.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Mandatory grade: 5+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6+
Quickdraws: 12 (6 de 60cm, 6 de 30cm)
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă: Rupi 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: N
Length: 5 pitches
Altitude: 2200 m
Height: 200 m
Climb duration: 3 - 4 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsCams/NutsTraverseDihedralChimneyRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Niculae Baticu, Dan Popescu, Ion Trandafir
Date: 20.10.1935
Second ascent (First repeat): Niculae Baticu, Nae Dimitriu, Toma Boerescu, Sorin Tulea, Ion Bădilă, Edy Aerkeder
Date: 28.09.1937
First winter ascent: Emil Fomino, Gheorghe Atanasiu
Date: 09.12.1951
First solo ascent: Emil Fomino


Route description

It is best recommended to climb this route after a long period of dry weather. First, second and the beginning of the third pitch have most of the time wet sections.

After climbing 100 meters on Hornul Coamei we will find on the left side the entrance, marked by some faded red paint.

Pitch 1 (50m, 5+): The route starts climbing a small compact wall, of about 4 meters (5+), after that we continue traversing to the left, on a stone ledge for another 40 meters, where we can make a belay station at a piton and some nuts, right under the routes Surplomba Centrală and Furca Dreaptă.

Pitch 2 (55m, 5): We start down climbing for about 10 meters (on which we find 4-5 pitons, very useful for the second climber), then start traversing on another big ledge (just above The Great Roof) for about 20 meters (beware, not to traverse until its end). 10 meters before the ledge ends we start climbing a small step (5 meters, grade 5), then continue climbing 5-6 meters until the belay station (2 solid pitons).

Pitch 3 (50m, 5+): Climbs a nice dihedral with good holds, then after 10 meters we avoid an overhang through the left side. From here we continue on a dihedral/chimney for another 15 meters, until we reach an intermediate belay station, but we can continue another 25 meters on a chimney and reach a comfortable belay station at the beginning of a very big chimney.

Pitch 4 (55m, 5+): We climb the chimney, having good holds. We reach the first piton after 5 meters, then we pass over an overhang (it is possible to climb the right face with no pitons and some loose rock in order to avoid the small overhang). We continue on an easy chimney until we reach a big boulder. It is best if we pass it on its left (otherwise we will have rope drag). We continue to the left on a very big ledge, finding the belay station (2 pitons) near the end of the ledge.

Pitch 5 (57m, 6-): We climb a small vertical step, continue ascending to the right until we reach a crack (on which we can see multiple pitons). Here is the crux of the route (6-/5b+), after which we continue with an easy chimney until we reach Coştila-Gălbinele Ridge, making a belay station o
n one of the boulders.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2017/08/traseul-furcile-5lc6.html
Diaconescu Radu - http://www.diaconescuradu.com/furcile-lui-baticu-ultima-noapte-de
Sebastian Panceac - http://nenea-sebu.blogspot.ro/2009/10/sfarsit-de-septembrie-la-costila.html
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000
Descrierea lui Niculae Baticu: http://www.ovidiublag.ro/2012/11/colectia-verde-jurnalul-unui-alpinist-si-aviator-de-niculae-baticu/


Access and retreat

Access route: From Coştila Refuge we climb Gălbenele Valley, then 100 meters on Hornul Coamei valley.
Retreat route: We can continue on Coştila-Gălbenele Ridge, climb up on easy terrain until we reach Coştila Big Ledge (Brâna Mare a Coştilei). From there we down climb the White Valley Ridge, on which we can descend. While descending we will find some red anchors, from which we can abseil (in case of fatigue or bad weather). We traverse Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană(small ledge with a chain). We down climb in a gully, until we reach it's end, then traverse to the left, entering a second gully, which we down climb them using some chains. After the last chain ends, we down climb another 50 meters, then continue on the small trail on the right ridge.. We traverse a small ledge to the right, then down climbing a small gully using a chain. We will arrive back where we started, at La Pândă. In 20 minutes we are back at Coştila Refuge.

Topo

Topo

Furcile

Pictures


Sursă: Rupi

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Sursă: Rupi

User who climbed the route


Andrei Holban - 16.08.2018
Chereches Cristian - 16.08.2018, Vara
Bercean Ioan - 16.08.2018, Vara
Andrei Gurgu - 01.07.2017, Vara
LauraB - 03.09.2016, Vara
Andrei Holban - 18.07.2015
Angelica Ion - 18.07.2015
Dorin Cristea - 05.08.2007, Vara
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara

Users who wish to climb the route


Stefan

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Mihai Sava - 02.09.2017

Video - Silvia Murgescu - 20.03.2011

Map



GPS: N 4,54310419720042E+16°0.0' E 2,5501037214653E+16°0.0'    
Access route: From Coştila Refuge we climb Gălbenele Valley, then 100 meters on Hornul Coamei valley.
Retreat route: We can continue on Coştila-Gălbenele Ridge, climb up on easy terrain until we reach Coştila Big Ledge (Brâna Mare a Coştilei). From there we down climb the White Valley Ridge, on which we can descend. While descending we will find some red anchors, from which we can abseil (in case of fatigue or bad weather). We traverse Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană(small ledge with a chain). We down climb in a gully, until we reach it's end, then traverse to the left, entering a second gully, which we down climb them using some chains. After the last chain ends, we down climb another 50 meters, then continue on the small trail on the right ridge.. We traverse a small ledge to the right, then down climbing a small gully using a chain. We will arrive back where we started, at La Pândă. In 20 minutes we are back at Coştila Refuge.

Equipment


Quickdraws: 12 (6 de 60cm, 6 de 30cm)
Sursă: Rupi

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