Route description It is best recommended to climb this route after a long period of dry weather. First, second and the beginning of the third pitch have most of the time wet sections.
After climbing 100 meters on Hornul Coamei we will find on the left side the entrance, marked by some faded red paint.
Pitch 1 (50m, 5+): The route starts climbing a small compact wall, of about 4 meters (5+), after that we continue traversing to the left, on a stone ledge for another 40 meters, where we can make a belay station at a piton and some nuts, right under the routes Surplomba Centrală and Furca Dreaptă.
Pitch 2 (55m, 5): We start down climbing for about 10 meters (on which we find 4-5 pitons, very useful for the second climber), then start traversing on another big ledge (just above The Great Roof) for about 20 meters (beware, not to traverse until its end). 10 meters before the ledge ends we start climbing a small step (5 meters, grade 5), then continue climbing 5-6 meters until the belay station (2 solid pitons).
Pitch 3 (50m, 5+): Climbs a nice dihedral with good holds, then after 10 meters we avoid an overhang through the left side. From here we continue on a dihedral/chimney for another 15 meters, until we reach an intermediate belay station, but we can continue another 25 meters on a chimney and reach a comfortable belay station at the beginning of a very big chimney.
Pitch 4 (55m, 5+): We climb the chimney, having good holds. We reach the first piton after 5 meters, then we pass over an overhang (it is possible to climb the right face with no pitons and some loose rock in order to avoid the small overhang). We continue on an easy chimney until we reach a big boulder. It is best if we pass it on its left (otherwise we will have rope drag). We continue to the left on a very big ledge, finding the belay station (2 pitons) near the end of the ledge.
Pitch 5 (57m, 6-): We climb a small vertical step, continue ascending to the right until we reach a crack (on which we can see multiple pitons). Here is the crux of the route (6-/5b+), after which we continue with an easy chimney until we reach Coştila-Gălbinele Ridge, making a belay station on one of the boulders.
Information source Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2017/08/traseul-furcile-5lc6.html
Diaconescu Radu - http://www.diaconescuradu.com/furcile-lui-baticu-ultima-noapte-de
Sebastian Panceac - http://nenea-sebu.blogspot.ro/2009/10/sfarsit-de-septembrie-la-costila.html
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000
- https://giaro.wordpress.com/2010/06/23/precursorii-lui-baticu/#comments
Descrierea lui Niculae Baticu: http://www.ovidiublag.ro/2012/11/colectia-verde-jurnalul-unui-alpinist-si-aviator-de-niculae-baticu/
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