On 05.08.1907 Niculae Comănescu was born. Today we celebrate 85 years since Hornul Mare din Padina Închisă (Peretele Orga Mare) first ascent

Raza Soarelui 5A, 6c/6c+ (5c, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.11.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 15.07.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 5c
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6c/6c+
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Emil Keresztes 
Length: 5 pitches
Height: 153 m
Climb duration: 3 - 4 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsTraverseDihedralCrackTreesFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Iuliu Pop, János Nüber, Constantin Bostan
Date: 1975
Repaired date: 2008


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1: we Leave on one side, the fallen, the easy. This is followed by a vertical crack which is close to the steps is in this area.

LK 2: climb a few meters straight up into the sky, and then it turns into a traverseu rather than to the left. At one point there was a step downward a little more difficult. Following the passage of the edge, and usher in a history of clear, easy.

LC-3: it Starts with traverseu the left, this time more gently. Climb up and then up and down through the area, the more brittle. Then go to a rift, a long skew to the left. The steps here are so much more delicate. Towards the end, they abandon the crack and climbing over a tavanel poorly secured, as he two-hands the weaker the move, the following insurance, way over my head.

LK 4: this Is the longest, the most difficult to loose, but it's artificial. After a traverseu left, grab the crack high that stretches across the wall. It comes from a tree, after which it goes to many hands outs, but it's not a problem because the seat in place, and expansion bolts. It comes from a tree and from there continue on to a dihedral vertical, well-beaten. There are a couple of steps from the off, interesting, not too hard. After the dihedral may exceed the face fully flushed out where it is and step off of the trail.

LK 5: it's quick and easy for you. A short traverseu the right, then to the top on big holds up into the woods, the bringing together of the final tree. The 2 lengths can be joined together.
Information source
Premiera - Nomenclator trasee, 2000
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Sursă: Emil Keresztes

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Sursă: Emil Keresztes

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Carmen Popa - 13.07.2019, Vara
- 13.07.2019

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Sursă: Emil Keresztes

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