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On 17.09.1919 Busuioc Păun was born. Today we celebrate 82 years since Marea Surplombă - varianta cu ieşire în Creastă (Peretele Gălbenelelor) first ascent, 60 years since Piciorul Judelui Mare (Faţa dinspre Turnul Porţii) (Vârful Judele (Mare)) first ascent, 1 year since Tărâmul Celălalt (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent

Lacrima de Piatră 5B, 7a+ (6a, A1)
5,00/5 (2 votes)




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  • Description
  • Diaries/Climbs (40)
  • Video (10)
  • Equipment
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 01.11.2014
edited by unu_din_cluj la data de 13.12.2020

General characteristics

Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6a
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 7a+
Quickdraws: around 15
Type: Classic route
 alt 
Length: 5 pitches
Height: 163 m
Climb duration: 4 - 5 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Mircea Noaghiu, József Vass, Géza Tódor, Constantin Pădureanu
Date: 1975
Repaired: Salvamont Gheorgheni
Date: 2020
First rotpunkt ascent: János Török

Route description

The route has its name written at the base of the wall.

1st pitch: starts on a dirty slab, partly covered in grass. In place protections are rare here and sometimes hidden by vegetation. The sketch directs slightly to the right but we found protection a little to the left. So the pitch goes slightly left at the end, towards a comfortable grassy ledge where you will find the belay station.

2nd pitch: there are two options here, a classical and a modern one.
The classical line: it goes a little to the left on an obvious crack, easy, without in place protections. After it it traverses diagonally right towards another obvious vertical crack. Follow the vertical crack for about 7 m until you will see the suspended belay station on the left, one meter from the crack.
The modern version: on the clean rock face on the right there is a bolted pitch titled Hendrix, opened by Joe Indianul. Beautiful vertical climbing on good protections, difficulty around 7, that leads up towards the end of the traverse the classical pitch makes towards the crack above. Finish the traverse and go up for about 7 m on the crack above until you see the belay station on the left.

3rd pitch: continues traversing left from the belay and, after 2 pegs, goes up on a small crack, only to further traverse left above the grassy ledge. From here on the pitch continues directly up over a series of faces and small cracks with ok protections. It's not difficult but delicate. We set the belay on a rock platform at the end of a crack.

4th pitch: starts on an easy crack above the belay, after which it turns left over a small vertical face. Here it is a crux that can be passed at A0. After the short traverse we continue on a beautiful crack protected by 2 bolts. At the end of the flake we traverse right on a crack with good hand holds, protected with a lot of old pegs. From here we continue up on several faces with beautiful balancing steps. You will find pegs, sometimes hidden in the grass. Belay station under the roof found a little to the right.

5th pitch: traverses on mossy/dirty rock left under the roof to reach easy terrain that exits on the face above the roof. Above the roof you will find the crux of the route, a vertical face with difficulty around 8. The section is protected with bolts, it can be an A1. After it we exit in the Fairy Garden.

Access and retreat

Access route: V1: To get to the base of the wall we trek 15 minutes on a steep slope in the forest. The entrance to the path to Lacrima de Piatra is behind the "Lacul Rosu" village indicator, as you go in the direction of Bicaz city. We trekked directly towards the wall and as we reaches we traversed to its left until we found the writing on the wall: Lacrima de Piatra 6A (funny, it was a 5B until a while ago)

V2: To get to the start of the route, we go up from the "Raza Soarelui" touristic complex, found at the end of Lacul Rosu village. We go towards the south wall of Fagetul Ciucului. We traverse left at the base of the wall and go past the ridge that markes the south wall. After a short trek up through the forest we get to the base of the wes wall of Fagetul Ciucului. The entrance to the route is on the central part of the wall, next to a big tree growing close to the rock.
Access duration: 15 min
Retreat route: We follow the trail from the forest that leads east, on a visible path that passes above the south wall towards Varascau saddle. The trail is sometimes marked by a white rectangle. From the saddle we descend to the right and, in short time, we get to "Raza soarelui" touristic complex.
Retreat duration: 20 min

Topo

Topo

Lacrima de Piatră

Pictures

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Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it

Video - Mihai Sava - 26.05.2018

Video - Páll Endre - 11.09.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 11.09.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 11.09.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 11.09.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 11.09.2017

Video - Vlad Condratov - 02.04.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 07.08.2016

Video - Páll Endre - 25.08.2012

Video - Páll Endre - 09.08.2010

Map

Access route: V1: To get to the base of the wall we trek 15 minutes on a steep slope in the forest. The entrance to the path to Lacrima de Piatra is behind the "Lacul Rosu" village indicator, as you go in the direction of Bicaz city. We trekked directly towards the wall and as we reaches we traversed to its left until we found the writing on the wall: Lacrima de Piatra 6A (funny, it was a 5B until a while ago)

V2: To get to the start of the route, we go up from the "Raza Soarelui" touristic complex, found at the end of Lacul Rosu village. We go towards the south wall of Fagetul Ciucului. We traverse left at the base of the wall and go past the ridge that markes the south wall. After a short trek up through the forest we get to the base of the wes wall of Fagetul Ciucului. The entrance to the route is on the central part of the wall, next to a big tree growing close to the rock.
Retreat route: We follow the trail from the forest that leads east, on a visible path that passes above the south wall towards Varascau saddle. The trail is sometimes marked by a white rectangle. From the saddle we descend to the right and, in short time, we get to "Raza soarelui" touristic complex.

Equipment

Rope: 60 m double ropes
Quickdraws: around 15
Additional equipment: climbing ladders for the A1 crux and also because it is standard equipment in Bicazului Gorge.
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Comments