Fisura Turnuleţului 4A, (A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 29.01.2020

General characteristics

Classic grade: 4A
Aid climbing grade: A1
Type: Classic route

Length: 8 pitches
Height: 242 m
Climb duration: 3 - 5 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 


PitonsCams/NutsChimneyGrassNot recommendedPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Alexandru Stătescu, Alexe Dumitru
Date: 1957

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

It is the route unsafe, the hands feeble, and the line was ugly.

LC-1 to 4: the Lengths of the leads us on a steep slope, brittle, and grassy, very, very bad pitonata. At the end of the length of the 4 of us grouped conveniently in the recess, the 3 hands.

LC 5: the Top of the niche, there is a split array, and the overhangnta, but premieri?tii have a more comfortable, avoiding the crack, crossing the threshold of the grass at the base of the wall (10 m, class 2). Following the passage of the artificial-up and diagonal-right, (25, A1), and then up and down, parallel to the crack. Grouped uncomfortably on the threshold to the 3 cams.

LK 6: Starts out with a traverseu the right of the 4 m high in order to get into the rift, which is widening, becomes a chimney. The funnel turns into a sluice box turf, a place where you cross over to the right on a knife-edge.

LK 7: We climb to the ridge (grade 3-). The rock is solid, the plugs are very good. Grouped on a terrace, with 2 pins.

LK 8: From the left side of the terrace, climb up on to a wider one, that's narrow for you to enter in a ditch along the slope (grade 2). Scocul it turns into a funnel of narrow, but the plugs are good, what do we get on the ridge to the left and above (grade-3). Regroup at the mountain pass of the ridge at the 1st department.

Up on the left-hand side of the ridge, which is wooded, to the top of Surduc Stone.
Information source
Wild Ferenc -
Poză -



Sursă: Wild Ferenc



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