Today we celebrate Adrian Vălean, who reached the beautiful age of 46 years. Happy birthday!. Today we celebrate 49 years since Muchia Hornului Ascuns (Turnul Galben al Dianei) first ascent

Traseul Maraton 6A
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added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 30.03.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Type: Classic route

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Length: 16 pitches
Height: 350 m
Climb duration: 6 - 8 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsAid climbingOverhangCrackChimneyGrassPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Iacob Novac, Szabolcs Harghitay, Emil Luzan, Mihaly Kállay
Date: 1984


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

It is the longest trail in the Bicaz canyon, which is carried out between the Spurs and the Turnule?ului. The route has seen very few repeats in the last few years, so you'll have to go into it necessarily with the hammer, hands, cell phones, and we expect it to rock slightly dirty, and the vegetation, due to the neparcurgerii. Some of the lengths can be joined together, thus resulting in less length of the cord.

LC-1 (28 km): it Starts from the vertical and easily surlombant, and at the end of the length, we make a traverse left on tiny plugs. Grouped uncomfortably on a small platform.

LC-2 (30 km): it Starts with a surlomba, which was overcome at first with the aid of a spreader, and then up and slightly left to a platform with a large tree, where it can regroup.

LC-3 (30 m): this Is a long stretch, and slowly increasing to the right and then regroup in a different tree.

LC-4 (40 feet): the Length of the switch from the 10m to the right Brânei of the Reserve, where we can withdraw from the course. We start the climb free, and get to a higher platform, then cross a beetle with a synthetic hard. We were still a couple of feet away and regroup, on top of a tree.

LC-5 (28 m) Vertical all the way up to the next platform. The pool the perfect.

LC-6 (35 km): it Starts with a traverseu the right for 5m, then we can catch a dihedral low, followed by the other dihedral more and more clear (the rings are on the left). Regroup at the end, uncomfortably, in a little grotto.

LC-7 (30 m): to Keep the dihedral, which turns into a chimney to the top of the keep, and the dihedral in the history. Regroup after the 30.

LC-8 (30m): Continue up the crack stop, and then do a little traverseu the left and we'll get in the pool.

LC-9 (40 km): it Starts on the crack overhangnta from the top of the pool, there is a small traverseu (tilting), left to get out of the crack, and up to re-enter the crack. A traverseu the left leads to the pool.

LC-10 (40 km): it Starts with a fissure, continuous with the front washed out, that leads to a chimney, easily overhangnt, interrupted by 2 small overhangs. The chimney is transformed into a dihedral, and the reform of the uncomfortable.

LC 11 (20 m) to The front, and then get a wider one, that green roof to the left and regrouped on the platform to the place.

LC-12 (35 km): work your way up a large crack (where there is a large slab built-in), which is a break in the climbing, free patch. The crack is followed by a washing of it; then a small passage to the right, and the reform of the uncomfortable, in a little grotto.

LC 13 (25 km): we Leave the right hand upward into a dihedral. In the overtake by the free climbing, a little time, and we take a traverseu (tilting) to the left. Go to the top and regrouped a few feet away.

LC-14 (40 km): it Starts with a vertical face, aiming for the top. The chimney is hard, overhangnt, and end up with a beetle. on the side of the man. After the passing of the durplombei reform is inconvenient.

LC-15 (40 meters): Keep it up, and then we get into the traverseu left hand, for a dihedral. Climb up the two-flat, which then turns into a large crack. We continue climbing on a crumbly, followed by a traverseu to the left. Rings, large, lead us to the pool. The pool pain in the ass.

LC-16 (40 km): On the top on the cracks, and then the front overhangta. We are entering in a wide passage, and to the end he turns into a chimney is not difficult. Re the trees at the top.
Information source
Wild Ferenc - http://www.fsz.bme.hu/mtsz/mhk/egyeb/bekas/bekas.htm
Wild Ferenc - Alpinism în Cheile Bicazului

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: The trail starts at mile marker 31, by going upstream on the river is Located another 10, on its right bank, across the river.

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Map



Access route: The trail starts at mile marker 31, by going upstream on the river is Located another 10, on its right bank, across the river.

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