Today we celebrate 74 years since Fisura Sudică (Colţul Mălinului) first ascent.  

Traseul Maraton (The Route Of The Marathon) 6A
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added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Type: Technical rock climbing

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Length: 16 pitches
Height: 350 m
Climb duration: 6 - 8 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsAid climbingOverhangCrackChimneyGrassPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Iacob Novac, Szabolcs Harghitay, Emil Luzan, Mihály Kállai
Date: 1984


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

It is the longest route in Cheile Bicazului, taking place between the Wall of the Spurs and the Wall Turnule?ului. The route has seen very few repeats in the last few years, so you'll have to go into it necessarily with hammer, pitons, mobile and we expect it to rock slightly dirty and vegetation due to neparcurgerii. Some of the lengths can be merged, thus resulting in fewer lengths of rope.

LC 1 (28 km): Starts vertical and easy surlombant, and at the end of the length we make a traverse left on tiny plugs. Regroup uncomfortable on a small platform.

LC 2 (30 m): Start with a surlomba, what was overcome at first with the help of a spreader, and then up and slightly left to a platform with a large tree where it can regroup.

LC 3 (30 m): Is a long stretch and slightly upward to the right and regroup at another tree.

LC 4 (40 km): the Length of the move from 10m to the right Brânei the Reserve, where we can withdraw from the route. Start in free climbing, we arrive at a large platform, then cross a beetle with an artificial hard. Continue a few meters and regroup over at a tree.

LC 5 (28 km): Vertical up to the next platform. Regrouping chest of drawers.

LC 6 (35 km): it Starts with a traverseu right for 5m, then catch a dihedral little, followed by another dihedral bigger and more clear (the rings are on his left side). Regroup at the end of his, uncomfortably, in a little grotto.

LC 7 (30 m): we Continue on the dihedral, it turns into a chimney small, then continue and on the dihedral, in the bavarian. Regroup after 30m.

LC 8 (30 m): Continue up a crack to interrupt, then do a little traverseu left and get in the pool.

LC 9 (40 km): Starts on the crack overhangnta above the pool, follows a small traverseu (jig) left to get out of the rift, like above to reenter the rift. A traverseu the left leads us to the pool.

LC 10 (40 m): it Starts with a fissure, continuous with a face flushed, leads us to a chimney easy overhangnt, interrupted by 2 small overhangs. Chimney turns into a dihedral and regroup uncomfortable.

LC 11 (20 m): up on your face, then get a wider one, that green roof to the left and regroup on a platform chest of drawers.

LC 12 (35 km): Continue up on a large crack (where we have a large slab embedded), what one overcome in free climbing difficult. The crack is followed by a face flushed, then a small traverse to the right and regroup uncomfortable in a little grotto.

LC 13 (25 km): we Leave right upward into a dihedral. In overcome by free climbing, we reach a small time, where we do a traverseu (jig) left. We go up and regroup after a few meters.

LC 14 (40 km): it Starts with a vertical face, aiming for the chimney above. The chimney is difficult, overhangnt, and ends with a beetle. on his right side. After overcoming durplombei regroup uncomfortable.

LC 15 (40 km): Continue up, then go into traverseu the left, aiming a dihedral. Climb up the two-flat, which then turns into a large crack. Continue climbing on an area of crumbly, followed by a traverseu left. Rings large lead us to the pool. The pool uncomfortable.

LC 16 (40 km): up the crack, then a face overhangta. Go in/a wide corridor, what in the end turns into a chimney difficult. Regroup in the trees on the top.
Information source
Wild Ferenc - http://www.fsz.bme.hu/mtsz/mhk/egyeb/bekas/bekas.htm
Wild Ferenc - Alpinism în Cheile Bicazului

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: The trail starts at mile marker 31, going upstream on the river Bicaz still 10m, on its right bank, crossing the water.

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Map



Access route: The trail starts at mile marker 31, going upstream on the river Bicaz still 10m, on its right bank, crossing the water.

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