Today we celebrate 71 years since Traversarea Peretelui Ciorânga Mare (Peretele Ciorânga Mare) first ascent.  Today we celebrate 77 years since Traseul Central din Peretele Piscului Rece (Peretele Piscului Rece) first ascent.  

Traseul 16 Iunie (Route 16 June) 5B
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added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014

General characteristics

Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A2/A3
Type: Classic route

Length: 14 pitches
Height: 300 m
Climb duration: 6 - 8 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:


PitonsCams/NutsAid climbingChimneyTreesGrassPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dénes Tőke, Ştefan Ţurcaş
Date: 1978

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route which has seen few or 0 repetitions in the last 20 years, so we'll enter him at the premiere, with the pitons, the hammer, the rock is most likely dirty and crumbly in places due to the neparcurgerii.

LC 1: we Start artificially A1 for 5m. Following the passage of artificial A2 for 5m, easy overhangt, followed by a difficult passage to the right (A3), after which get on the girdle of grass. Follow it to the right, 10m from traverseu (grade 3+, 3 pitons), to get in the pool, 6 pitons. The pool uncomfortable.

LC 2: Continue traversing to the right (7m, grade 3+), then up some slabs cracked, 7m, A1. Continue on a chimney short, what you overcome in free climbing (9m, 4+), then traverse left 3m, grade 4+, at a tree where and regroup.

LC 3: Start up at artificial, 23 m, A1, surpassing a wall with grass. Get free a passage overhangnt, 4m, grade 4-, and after the 3m regroup at home on a wider one, that, under a beetle sea, a brad and 2 pitons.

LC 4: Get overhanging climbing mechanic 5m, A2/A3. Continue artificial slightly to the right A1, up to a threshold narrow. Continue up 3m A1, then traverse left to a chimney grassy with bushes. We go on the chimney (19m, grade 3) and get out at the far right of Brânei the Reserve.

LC 5: Start 15m to the left of a maple puny (to the right at 10m, going the Route of the Marathon, the longest in the Keys). Start with 5m of artificial A1 (4 pitons), to catch a chimney left oblique. Overcome chimney 10m by free climbing difficult (grade 5-), then 10m of artificially getting us out in the belay station of a wider one, that with the grass. Regroup at 4 pitons

LC 6: it Is a length of free climbing. After 10m, grade 4 - out on a wider one, that green roof to the left, then the other 10m, grade 4 , A1, and the last 8m, grade 3, towards the right we get a brad thin where we are and regroup at 2 pitons.

LC 7: Is a length of easy (grade 2), what starts at first to the left, then up through a chute grass. We pass a block of rock detached and get in the right of another fir slim where regroup the 2 pitons.

LC 8: Start on the basis of a stone washed, then descend to the left on the girdle of grass (grade 3). Regroup at a group of trees, at the base of one chimney.

LC 9: Continue on the chimney, grassy, grade 4+, having 2 cams on it. Regroup at the base of a chimney washing, to a single piton with a ring.

LC 10: Receive 5m you chimney are more difficult (grade 5+), then the next 10 lighter, grade 4+. The funnel becomes wider, continuing the next 10m, grade 3+ in the opposition. Regroup, stay in the right of a maple thick.

LC 11: Keep up on the doorsteps grassy on the left gutter (10m, grade 3+), and then another 5m to a small tower. After the other 7m cross the right and get to a wall vertically fragmented blocks. Follow the crack on the left side for the next 20m, A1, then traverse right (6m, 4 -), and regroup at the base of a chimney overhangt 3 pitons.

LC 12: This chimney is the key passage of the route. We start artificially 5m, A2, then 17m heavy, grade 6+. The chimney is tilted to the right, overhangt and you get on the outside. The 17m there is a single piton in the back of a block recessed. At the end of the chimney, 3m artificial A2 us out to the pool uncomfortable to 4 hands tied with rope.

LC 13: Continue up the chimney, but it gets easier, 30m, grade 4+. Follows a wider one, that upward to the left, for another 5m until the belay station consists of 5 hands bound with a rope.

LC 14: Go to the right, in free climbing light, reaching the edge of the Surduc Stone.
Information source
Wild Ferenc -

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: The entrance is at mile marker 31.



Sursă: Wild Ferenc



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Access route: The entrance is at mile marker 31.