Today we celebrate 51 years since Vâlcelul Turnului (Stogşoare) first ascent

Traseul Secuilor 6A, (A2)
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added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014

General characteristics

Classic grade: 6A
Aid climbing grade: A2
Type: Classic route

Length: 12 pitches
Height: 300 m
Climb duration: 6 - 8 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 


PitonsCams/NutsAid climbingChimneyPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Matei Krutsch, Gelu Crâşnic
Date: 1978

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route which has seen few or 0 repetitions in the last 20 years, so we'll enter him at the premiere, with the pitons, the hammer, the rock is most likely dirty and crumbly in places due to the neparcurgerii. The first 4 lengths are common with those of the Route the Miners.

LC 1 (35 km): Starts on a crack oriented to the right (15m, A1). Next crossing left (5-) up to belay station - belay station uncomfortable, 3 pitons.

LC 2 (18 km): Starts artificially A1/A2, the line pitonslor us leads after 10m under a beetle. Traverse right 3m, having insurance like fixed anchors old mechanical (expansoare). Pass under a beetle (5-) and after 5m înierba?i out in the pool (3 pitons and a tree).

LC 3 (40 km): we Climb 10m artificially A0 on a face flushed. Follows a trough flushed with the rock cracked and layered. Regroup on the tree on the Girdle of the Reserve.

LC 4 (40 km): we Climb a slope with grass and scree up to the base of the wall. Go down short on the left and reform to a group of tise.

LC 5 (33 km): we Start on a fissure right oblique leads us under a beetle great. Traverse 3m to the left and regroup.

LC 6 (35 km): we Continue crossing the still left 6m to a crack facing to the right. Overcome an area overhangta, and after the 18m we come to a second crossing to the left, being a traverseu of balance. Follow a crack up at the regroup on a small platform.

LC 7 (40 m): it Consists of a chimney with grass. Regroup at a tree.

LC 8 (40 km): Continue up the chimney, and after 20m out on the left wall. Continue on sockets and pitons solid, bringing together under a large beetle.

LC 9 (38 km): we Cross to the right a crack here and overhangta, then overcome the overhanging climbing (2 angles). Continue on to crack in free climbing.

LC 10 (38 km): After 6m vertical, traverse 3m to the right. Follow the crack up to a different chimney (that looks like a cave). Continue on girdle of the green roof above, and regroup convenient to the base of another chimney.

LC 11 (40 km): Continue on the chimney, which is very narrow, with no place to ramonam. Go artificial, and the output from the chimney is overhangta, and cross all artificial. We get to some large boulders, then a wider one, that, then a face flushed (with 5 expansoare). Regroup near a tree puny.

LC 12 (40 m): A crack larger drive slightly to the right until we hit the top of the trees.
Information source
Wild Ferenc -



Sursă: Wild Ferenc



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