Traseul Minerilor (The Route The Miners) 6A
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added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 19.05.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Aid climbing grade: A2
Type: Technical rock climbing

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Length: 13 pitches
Height: 295 m
Climb duration: 6 - 8 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsAid climbingChimneyTreesGrassNot recommendedPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Károly Kajtsa, Illyés József
Date: 1978


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route which has seen few or 0 repetitions in the last 20 years, so we'll enter him at the premiere, with the pitons, the hammer, the rock is most likely dirty and crumbly in places due to the neparcurgerii. The first 4 lengths are common with those of the Route Group.

LC 1: Starts on a crack oriented to the right (15m, A1). Next crossing left (5-) up to belay station - belay station uncomfortable, 3 pitons.

LC 2: Run the artificially A1/A2, the line pitonslor us leads after 10m under a beetle. Traverse right 3m, having insurance like fixed anchors old mechanical (expansoare). Pass under a beetle (5-) and after 5m înierbați out in the pool (3 pitons and a tree).

LC 3: Climb 10m artificially A0 on a face flushed. Follows a trough flushed with the rock cracked and layered. Regroup on the tree on the Girdle of the Reserve.

LC 4: Climb up a slope of grass and scree up to the base of the wall. Go down short on the left and reform to a group of tise.

LC 5: Start up among tise, cross left 8m (A1), then up the dihedral. The two-flat has the rings apart, running from the artificial (A1) with the outputs of the free. Regroup uncomfortable at the 3 pitons.

LC 6: Traverse left 5m (grade 3), we follow a steep, grassy with a few pitons and after 25m regroup next to a small tree, 3 pitons.

LC 7: Get on the circus, fallow, and then a chimney turf (grade 3-4). There are no cams on these passages, but we have a few trees. Regroup at the top of a small tower at 2 pitons.

LC 8: To the left we climb a chimney of 20 m, in opposition, then in ramonaj (degree 4+/5-). At the end of the chimney block is unstable, what you overcome on the tiny plugs on the walls of the chimney (grade 5+). The chimney becomes a trough grass (12m, grade 3/4). Regroup at a big tree.

LC 9: Continue on to the trough grass up to 2 trees, where the trough becomes vertical, with pitons rare on the road (grade 4+). The pool uncomfortable in the stirrups at 4 pitons.

LC 10: Go up 3m, a short traverse to the right (grade 4+), then up 2m, then another traverse to the left (grade 4+). Follows an area of artificial (A1/A2), then after 30m of chord cross the right (grade 5+). Follow a crack (8m, grade 4+) what a break in the bavarian, having insurance like a wooden wedge and a python. Regroup at 7 pitons tied with the rope.

LC 11: Continue up 5m (grade 4-) on a steep, grassy. Cross right at a piton hidden behind a block of rock. Continue up the crack 3m (grade 5+), outlets rounded obliges us to cross the right. Follow 7m of bavarian (grade 4+) on a crack to the left. After 10m of vertical wall, traverse right (grade 4+). Regroup at 3 pitons

LC 12: Climb through the opposition in a chimney wide. Attention, after 5m we have 3 cams in our right but the trail continues up. Continue on a crack narrow side facing slightly to the left, following the line of pitons (grade 5-), then get in another chimney without insurance fixed (5m, grade 4+). Regroup convenient to a tree.

LC 13: Follow to the right on a wider one, that grassy (20m, grade 4), then a crack (5m, grade 4) in bavarian. At the end of the crack block is unstable. After overcoming its climbing is easy and regroup at the tree on the peak.
Information source
Wild Ferenc - http://www.fsz.bme.hu/mtsz/mhk/egyeb/bekas/bekas.htm

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Sursă: Wild Ferenc

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