Turnul de Fildeş (The Ivory tower) 5B
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added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 7
Aid climbing grade: A2
Type: Classic route

 Linia traseului începând cu LC 4. Sursă: Cătălin Crețu 
Length: 12 pitches
Height: 260 m
Climb duration: 5 - 7 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsWooden pegsCams/NutsAid climbingCrackPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Mircea Opriş, Ion Coleşiu, Nicolae Jitaru
Date: 1965


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Probably among the most demanding and beautiful tracks classics from the Cheile Bicazului, in the current state of the insurance industry. The line, led with a lot of intelligence, tarverseaza ingenious on a crack on the side, upward or downward, passing a ceiling with bavarian superb, then exits on the left side of the tower itself, with passages of climbing very demanding. The route has been traveled 2 times in the last 20 years.

LC 1: Start with a pyramid, the first python being impossible to get otherwise. The first lungimie starts with a clear artificial, following a crack thin. We and the telephone cable installed mârlane?te on the wall and get in a dihedral very wet, where the advance seems impossible. I tried to knock a python there, but we haven't found any crack that to accept a blade. I somehow slipped free and, for safety, I beat the python in the first place, above.

LC 2: Start with a traverseu short left, then catch a crack clear, pitonata quite often, interrupted by rapids. The top reach on a platform where I have uploaded a crack wide that we get in the pool.

LC 3: it Is quite short, turn to the left, ascends a dihedral, then out in the grass on the girdle of the Lost World. Girdle of the Lost World is a wide place, with abundant vegetation, the breadth about 30 m, located 80-90 km straits of the road.

LC 4-5: Tie 2 lengths old. Catch a crack clear, with the pitons rare, but with the sockets good. It climbs about 20 m up in a niche wide. In the niche it straddles a block supported by the wall and crosses to the right. At some point, they reach a point where, in the old days, it was a traverseu Dülfer from a piton knocked into the back of a wooden wedges. Now, obviously, improvisation is not in good condition, so we had to do to free traverseul, just not easy (lucky that the hands appear a few clear plugs). Then follows a crack hard with insurance rare, with steps supported (here's a strap old in?epenita and a first wedge of wood rotten), and then a traverseu exposed to the right, secured with a python that comes out. Move freely many passages and get in the pool.

LC 6-7: Tie 2 lengths old. Starts with a traverseu very exposed, below the level of the pool. It goes to some thresholds of feet somewhere in the 3-4 m right-hand corner, with your hands on a wider one, that of grass, with movements very large, the total uninsured. Once it exceeds the girdle of this, they climb a few meters to a python that is seen in a crack the top right. From here you can climb following the line of the pitonslor, up under a ceiling corner. The passage ceiling is extraordinarily beautiful - a bavarian upward, of about 20 m, with a crack good to the hands and skirts to the legs. Insurance are very rare, because the old wooden wedges are now rotten, so that it goes 10-12 meters without insurance. The passage is spectacular and beautiful and I don't think that grade 6. Out above the ceiling, nice after a climb so spectacular. Regrouping is comfortable.

LC 8: From here we should have two lengths more light up under the tower, but I don't see any further. Set to go somehow to the left, overcome some passages of light, provide a python Simond, we climb up a few thresholds friable and break into a dihedral with vegetation, bringing together a wider one, that broad, chest of drawers, with trees.

LC 9: here I don't see any trace of the trail, so I go, and I left on a few thresholds fallow, and then, not seeing anything on the side wall, decide to climb a crack clear. Bat a python which goes very well, then I'll be up in a bavarian up to a threshold of the right crack. It's clear that I need to get to the top, on the left, where he sees the right arm of the Ivory Tower, where the de-intersected. Put a friend on crack and beat out a good blade, then cross over somehow to the left. Placing a friend under a tavanel and it's clear that from here I need to get out to free the thresholds of the above. I get out, I plugs good to the hand and nothing on his feet. Do I have to do a traverseu of about 15 m on the left. Place a friend in a crack wide, horizontal and pass towards the base of the tower. Here we find the grouping Intersectatului, where I cross the 10 m to the left until I get on the crack on the left, in the pool. It's a belay station chest of drawers, with two cams that doesn't move, even if they are beaten just on half. I don't have possibilities to put mobile. The normal line of the route is long in the left and stands directly in the pool! (link).

LC 10: this Is the first length of the tower, which continues up from the pool, on crack, green roof. Is length heavy, with steps, lying and applicants.

LC 11: Is the second length of the tower. It is a long hard, but something easier than the previous one. At first, it bypasses the crack wide on some thresholds on the left, then climbs up to some wooden wedges (one - ironically - is still in acceptable condition), pass on the crack up to the other two feathers rotten and then arrive in the top of the tower. Regrouping is comfortable. Here, a friend can be helpful. If not, the step is a 7 or 7+.

LC 12: Get on some faces and on some of the edges, at first with pitons rare, then with 2-3 steps of the artificial. It's not a length very easy, but a trifle on the next precedentle. Regroup at some trees.
Information source
Cătălin Crețu - https://picasaweb.google.com/116734182185530304205/20110522CheileBicazuluiTurnulDeFildes6A10LcCuVladCondratov

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Wild Ferenc

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Linia traseului începând cu LC 4. Sursă: Cătălin Crețu

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Linia traseului începând cu LC 4. Sursă: Cătălin Crețu

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Video - Páll Endre - 29.06.2016

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Linia traseului începând cu LC 4. Sursă: Cătălin Crețu

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