Traseul Intersectat (The Route Intersected) 6B
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added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 07.07.2016

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6B
Mandatory grade: 7
Aid climbing grade: A2/A3
Type: Technical rock climbing

 alt 
Length: 11 pitches
Height: 260 m
Climb duration: 5 - 7 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsWooden pegsCams/NutsAid climbingCrackGrassPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dumitru Chivu, Matei Schenn
Date: 1965


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route is in a pronounced state of degradation, seeing little runs in recent years.

On the first two lengths, until the girdle of the Lost World, de-intersected is common with the Route of the Spurs.

LC 1: Are 2 expansion bolts down the road, who use it to go in the route. From here, climb up a crack usually wet, then make the left, on a chimney fell. It's a length clear, with ease, with many pitons, so it doesn't matter that some are in poor condition.

LC 2: Exceeds a beetle, green roof, then climb a dihedral and make a few trasversee poorly secured to the left, reaching a large tree at the beginning of the Lost World. Attention to the guidance, the route line is not obvious. I missed a few hands due to vegetation.

LC 3: it Is, actually, a long stretch, about 60-70 m on the girdle of wide, taking the edge of the wall and ensuring at the trees. It goes under the boot in the Route of the Spurs (see the pitons) and continue to the right, until we get near a sycamore and see a python in one pocket and another in a crack on the right. The first 3 lengths are common with the Route of the Spurs.

LC 4: it Is one ingenious, with sailings on the rapids to the left. Length with the distance stretched, combining ascents in the stirrup with steps free. We arrive at a face with the sockets very small, without any insurance. We pick some tiny plugs and out to a threshold of grass, get somehow a better outlet and we're looking for python hide 5-6cm into the ground, under the grass. Many times rings are hard to find, hidden as in vegetation or in cracks clogged. Finally, regurparea it's good, in a crack wide what goes obliquely to the right.

LC 5: Is one mainly of free. We have in front of a crack wide, clear, fallen, which crosses to the right. Many passages are overgrown with vegetation. Insurance are placed well, without you to allow you to go artificially. A couple of pitons were serious, but this is one of the beautiful Intersectatului.

LC 6: Cross the ascendant right on the same crack, then climb directly on a line exaggerated pitons (probably as weak, the authors of the opening were counted on their number). Get easy in the grouping above.

LC 7: At startup in length, reach a point where problems may occur: a few hands go up, on the dihedron fell, but, in fact, after 4-5 meters, the route takes on the right, over some thresholds of grass that pass pretty hard. With movements stretched, overcome the passage. Appear a few problems on this length when, at a given time, at a traverseu right exposed, teammate is forced to stay a while and to beat a python, which I get when I come second.

LC 8: Follow a length to the right, exceeding the spai?uri wide a dihedral overhangt and tarversând then, right at the base of the Tower of Ivory (which is, actually, a plate huge supported of the wall, with a crack clear on every part). We get to the base of the tower where we intersect with the other route - the Ivory Tower (hence the name Intersectatului) and regroup on a wider one, that generous. The grouping consists of two cams located at the level of the knees and the other two above the head, one of which stands out immediately. We can see the line of the route of the Ivory Tower coming down.

LC 9: the First insurance above the pool is a wooden wedge, on which a subtituim with a nut. So, something above, another nut high is necessary. It is a long hard, where the steps are at least 7, and those of the artificial quite intin?i, especially because you can't rely on the feathers of the wood. They can regroup and something a little more down than the sketch show, 3 pitons relatively close.

LC 10: In belay station, we see that a step coming hard, where the crack widens and surplombeaza. He sees a wedge of wood above, black, with a rope on which we cannot rely, but something more in the right wedge is a spreader of old. This passage is very beautiful, the air and exposed. Once on top, we find 5 m belay station normal. Follow a chimney, clear, with insurance rare but only good ramonat or got between the legs.

LC 11. A light length, starts straight up from the pool.
Information source
Cătălin Crețu - https://picasaweb.google.com/116734182185530304205/2011061819CheileBicazuluiIntersectat6A10LcCuVladCondratovBicajelCuMihaiAnaDanL

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Sursă: Wild Ferenc

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Video - Páll Endre - 19.08.2012

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