Traseul Pintenilor (The Route Spurs) 6A
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added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Aid climbing grade: A2
Type: Classic route

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Length: 12 pitches
Height: 255 m
Climb duration: 6 - 8 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsQuestionable fixed protectionCams/NutsAid climbingCrackChimneyGrassNot recommendedPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dumitru Chivu, László Karácsonyi
Date: 1962


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route is among the most difficult in the Bicaz Gorges. The route has long passages of free imposed, with few pitons. In the length of 7-there are real problems of orientation. In place to continue on the chimney come in lengths of 5, 6, 7, it crosses right to exit on the tip of the Spur's Catalin, having the last 2 lengths in common with it.

The route is nefrecventat due pitonslor less, difficulty, as well as to accident in 1971 (in which the team Joseph Wottringer, Eugen Vaszi from chicago have flown out of the wall, probably continuing up the chimney after the length of the 7).

LC 1: Are 2 expansion bolts down the road, who use it to go in the route. From here, climb up a crack usually wet, then make the left, on a chimney fell. It's a length clear, with ease, with many pitons, so it doesn't matter that some are in poor condition.

LC 2: Exceeds a beetle, green roof, then climb a dihedral and make a few trasversee poorly secured to the left, reaching a large tree at the beginning of the Lost World. Attention to the guidance, the route line is not obvious. I missed a few hands due to vegetation.

LC 3: it Is, actually, a long stretch, about 60-70 m on the girdle of wide, taking the edge of the wall and ensuring at the trees. The continuation of the Route of the Spurs is clear (see the pitons), targeting the cleft between the Tower and the Wall of Spurs. The first 3 lengths are common with the Route Intersected.

LC 4: Scroll through the chimney of the Tower of Catalin and the Wall of Spurs. It escalates difficult through the gorges of the shoulder.

LC 5: Start with a traverseu right of 3m. From here begins the crack wide, and continues, what becomes a chimney, deep and narrow, that has a roadmap continuously until the edge of the Spur's Catalin.

LC 6: Keep going up, we have ba a rift wide, a chimney narrow. Free climbing difficult alternate with the artificial, the assurances being mostly pipes. Regrouping chest of drawers in a small cave.

LC 7: Go up the chimney only 10m! In the time that we get to a wider one, that of the grass downward to the right, narrow, follow, (although the line of the natural route would have been up on the chimney), what we take out after 16m in a sluice box wide, that separates the Ridge's Catalin Wall of Spurs. Regroup the 2 pitons.

LC 8: On the lower portion scocul is narrow and bring the chimney (but we have a few trees that we can help). After about 12, traverse left 3m and go on the Spur of Catalin. Go over 15m înierba?i, running parallel with honul from our left.

LC 9: Continue on ridge NW of the Spire's Catalin, on a fissure (which sometimes widens, becoming chimney), losing easy-easy in difficulty. The last 8m are common with the route of the Spur's Catalin, what comes in from the left. Regroup to regroup the intermediary of the Spur's Catalin, at the 2 pitons, next to a brad thin.

LC 10: Up on the peak we still have 15m of climbing easy and regrupeaya to a python booster. On top rapelam 17m up in Strunga with Birch.

LC 11: The gap gets a passage artificially easy (15m A0), it follows a succession of thresholds grassy, reaching to a terrace with trees.

LC 12: at The far right of the terrace start a crack (15m, A1), which widens, becoming a sluice box easy up in the woods. The last 2 lengths can be joined with ropes of 60m.
Information source
Wild Ferenc - http://www.fsz.bme.hu/mtsz/mhk/egyeb/bekas/bekas.htm
Primele 3 lungimi - https://picasaweb.google.com/116734182185530304205/2011061819CheileBicazuluiIntersectat6A10LcCuVladCondratovBicajelCuMihaiAnaDanL
Poză - Cătălin Creţu - https://www.facebook.com/calpatin/posts/1318791898137034

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Sursă: Wild Ferenc

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