Route description The route has been fully repaired with stainless steel bolts.
The entrance is on the right of the Grotelor route, belay station at a stainless steel bolt.
Gear needed: 60m rope, 10 quickdraws. No cams needed.
Route height 200 m.
Grades are estimated by the authors of the route for a rotpunkt climb. The mandatory grade (required to climb the route in classic style) 6a+.
Pitch 1: Climb up on easy terrain, on steps washed away by the water. 20-m, 2 bolts, grade 3-4
Pitch 2: 35-40m. Option 1 : Leave on the left, an overhang and a dihedral, grade 6a. Option 2: Climb straight ahead, go over a small overhang (1 bolt), after that the climb is vertical, on pockets for 4-5 m, then slab climbing on cracks grade 6c?
Pitch1 and 2 are more likely to be wet, and they can be avoided through the ledge that goes to 3 Surplombe route.
Pitch 3: Belay station is visible and is located on the ledge that goes to 3 Surplombe route (2 stainless bolts), about 50 m to the right of 3 Surplombe route. Vertical start (visible golden piton) then slightly right. Pass a slightly vertical step, to the right, then a face with solid pockets, then 4 bolts on a slightly overhanging step. The route goes straight up on the face, not on the grassy crack on the left (very visible line of bolts). Halfway up, the climb becomes easier, we follow a line of cracks (slabs) that leads to the belay station on a small face, under the route 3 Surplombe. 35 m, 8 bolts, grade 6b/c
Pitch 4: Vertical start directly from the belay station, arrive at the ledge from 3 Surplombe, which continues to the right (on old pegs). We go up to the next visible bolt. Delicate face climbing, continue on an a very interesting open hand edge (4 bolts) then exit to the left under the visible roof. The bolt from the start of the roof can be easily clipped, the crux is exiting the roof, where we have another bolt, at aprox 3 m. Belay station at 8-10 m over the exit over the roof. 50 m, 8 bolts, estimated grade 6c/7a
Pitch 5: Continue on the dihedral to the right of the belay station (2 bolts) then exit to the left. Go straight up, after which the wall is vertical (open dihedral). The exit is on the left side of the dihedral (visible bolt, the rock is very solid), avoiding the loose and grassy section on the right side. The last section of the pitch, it is very easy. 50 m, 5 bolts, grade 6a.
Pitch 6: Straight up, to a very visible dihedral/crack (1 bolt). The climbing is very easy up to the first bolt, and after that another crux, after the bolt. Once you get over the crux, we have a new bolt. We are at the base of a dihedral that goes to the right, but we follow the bolt line. Climb the delicate face on solid rock (the 3 bolts) and then the exit to the belay station. 35, m, 5 bolts, grade 6b/c
Pitch 7: Crack to the right (the terrain is slab, for a few meters than it becomes vertical) - the 3 bolts. We have another small crux, traverse slightly right, then up (bolt barely noticeable). We arrive at a place to rest, and then we see the bolts at the end of the pitch, at the left-hand side of the arch (2 bolts). The crux is well protected, then to the belay station, in 4-5 meters. 35, m, 6 bolts, grade 6b/c
Pitch 8: Traverse to the right for about 2-3 meters, then up, over a small overhang (delicate step) - 1 bolt. Climb is easy afterwards, we have another bolt a few meters above, and then we have the belay station on the main ridge, (2 stainless steel bolts + an old one left behind for the guidance). 35m, 2 bolts, grade 6aInformation source Schiță și descriere - Ioni Mânzatu
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