Today we celebrate 21 years since Scăpărici (Peretele Coştilei) first ascent

Fisura Strungii cu Mesteacăn 5B, (A2/A3)
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added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Aid climbing grade: A2/A3
Type: Classic route

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Length: 8 pitches
Height: 195 m
Climb duration: 4 - 5 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

PitonsQuestionable fixed protectionCams/NutsChimneyGrassPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Matei Schenn, Aurel Irimia, László Karácsonyi
Date: 1962


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The trail follows the cleft between the Lug's Catalin and the North Wall. After 6 lengths, the trail unites with the Trail of Catalin and Trail Spurs and stands on the Stone Surduc. The key passage is found in the length of 6-a, under the gap, consisting in an artificial A3. The author tells us that "the rings are well secured and the route can be climbed safely", but as the route has never seen "wizards" in the last time it's good to arm ourselves with a hammer, some pitons and a lawnmower.

LC 1: we Start on a rift grassy (10m, 4, A1), which turns into a dihedral overhangnt and tilted to the left (12m, A2), given that the insurance "pitons hollow" (pipes).

LC 2: Continue up the dihedral (11m, A2), then follows a passage well pitonat, but grassy (15m, A1). Regroup on the terrace, chest of drawers, at the base of a chimney.

LC 3: At the top of the chimney, the first 6 m-mining in ramonaj (5-), and the next 9m overhangn?i the artificial (A2). Continue to the left, by a sycamore, above which there begins a chimney turf. Climb the chimney on the parginea him, in spra?uri, and regroup on top of the 3 pitons.

LC 4: Contiam on the chimney 15m, the lower part being the most difficult(5-, A2), the upper one is more mild (grade 4). The chimney is close to the end, by following out through a window. After 5m of ramonaj easy (grade 4-) get a wider one, that grassy wide. Regrouping at the 1 python.

LC 5: up on a chimney broad and easy (grade 4), after 15m arriving at a block of rock around to the left. Follows a passage grass, then a fisurp overhangnta, will regroup at 3 pitons.

LC 6: Is the length of the hard, having a crack overhangnta of 15m. The crack is protected with pipes without the ring, battered deep in the crack. The passage is artificial past (A3), being forced to get out of the stirrup with the keys of the knee or spra?uri wide. After the 15m leave the crack to the right (5m, A1), go on a area, green roof, and after 10m in Strunga with Birch, intersecting with the Ridge's Catalin and Trail Spurs.

LC 7: From the small strait up 15m a passage artificially easy (A0/A1). Go over an area grassy and mossy, and regroup to a large terrace with trees.

LC 8: Start at the far right of the terrace. A crack of 15m, pitonata (A1). The crack enlarges, then get in a ditch along the slope, bringing together in the woods.
Information source
Wild Ferenc - http://www.fsz.bme.hu/mtsz/mhk/egyeb/bekas/bekas.htm

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Sursă: Wild Ferenc

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