On 19.10.1933 Matei Schenn was born.

Dinamo XXX 6B, (6b, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014
edited by Ad mini la data de 05.07.2016

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6B
Mandatory grade: 6b
Aid climbing grade: A1
Type: Classic route

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Length: 11 pitches
Height: 210 m
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

PitonsWooden pegsQuestionable fixed protectionCams/NutsAid climbingCrackNot recommendedPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Viorel Boboc, Kurt Schnabel
Date: 1979


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route Dynamo XXX is one rarely traveled, being avoided since the '80s. They say that this is the route with the hardest step of free from Bicaz. Rings are old, some are broken, others are moving. The rock is dirty, some areas are overgrown with vegetation, steps forced feel as heavy when you're under you hands very weak and sockets unclear. With the exception of the first two lengths and the last, the trail has a forced line - ingenious as the solution, but forced. They do kind of sort of zig-zag puzzles, horizontal or vertical, crossing, we do have part and of any three points in which we need to do penduluri.

LC 1: A crack thin, secured with pitons weak. The outlets are pretty dirty, but it's not very difficult. It comes out on a wider one, that and it crosses the long on the right, until below a crack wide, clear.

LC 2: A crack wide, steps free 100%. This is the most clear and the most beautiful length of the route. Probably there is also the well known steps of free required. The degree of free is 7, and it becomes imposed, because the assurances are rare and bad: some thick pipes minted deep in the crack with thin wire instead of ring (no chance to sustain a fall). Crack climbs in the opposition, sprai?uri wide, a little bit of ramonaj. Regroup uncomfortable somewhere at the end of the crack, in a cave, under a ceiling. The grouping consists of two cams weak, an hourglass and a friend great put it well. In fact the belay station of the normal is the ceiling, the 3-4 meters to the left, above.

LC 3: In the third length overcome the free ceiling - here you can put frienduri in a crack good, beautiful, horizontal - and then climb a face to a beetle insured with two pitioane weak, beaten a few centimeters, very close to each other. Above across to the right, get to a cornier big sees, and from the Crack of the Art and must be changed direction. It's the place of the first pendulum here, but we'll fix him up with a few movements exhibited by the free and leave a railing for the second. Tie between them two cams close (one is like made of foil from cigarette) and still one of the above and I regroup. The belay station of normal is just as bad.

LC 4: THE fourth length has a few moves on a face troubled, then he goes out on a threshold the dirty is crossing the right, to the instinct, because I don't see any python. Give a crack in which I put a friend good, I hire a crossing with the plugs good to the hands, in a crack, but with a very dirty feet. Give a python that breaks when you touch it. But follow others. Find a good place to regroup, but we can continue the above, on a steep, easy. I regroup in the end with two cams and a nut under a beetle, quite comfortable.

LC 5: Starts with overcoming surplombei. It's not hard, there are plenty of pitons here and you can pass artificial. Above I get on a small brâni?a where they are minted two cams at 10 centimeters from each other. Here is the place of the second pendulum. I see two cams beat them both up 2-3 inches in the same alveolus, somewhere skew-right, about 5 meters below. Do something balance on the wall and catch a python on the right, below. We have a few more dirty thresholds up and get into a pool chest of drawers, this time.

LC 6: the above route has about the same characteristics: crosses briefly from place to place, left or right, down or up, as they could beat the pitons. The same pitioane weak, with ears very thin, which you load with great caution. It's not allowed to fall here. At one point, I swing right into a python trying to get to an outlet generous, then the second mate recovers the stapes with that python.

LC 7: A crack wide, with sockets inverse good, clean, with insurance rare. Above the crack narrows and, after a few steps beautiful free, we have again to rely on the pitons. Regroup at the two expansoare old made almost on a face flushed.

LC 8: A face with something of the alveoli, then a fisurica not just hard. It's just that the crack closes and ends at some rapids with vegetation. I felt here the most exposed and most risky step of the route: the last python is 5-7 feet below me, on the right, it's not even that great, I'm with my hands in a the threshold is dirty and I have no idea where to go. On the left are some christmas trees undertaken on a wider one, that thin. Decide to go in there; clean up the threshold of vegetation, put a friend small from top to bottom in a crevice, and then get up with the left foot on the threshold. With your left hand feel after some plugs, but I can't find a big deal. Eventually they pass to the left, towards the christmas trees and see somewhere above a python. I regroup linking between them two cams spaced.

LC 9: Is a length ugly. First on the left, to a python visible, then another small pendulum, to another python found below on the left, and - the icing on the cake - a traverseu long left, with the last insurance in a python rotten and bullish on some of the sills dirty and loose up to another python thin, beaten somehow horizontal in a fisurica. I keep looking and I take heart in the teeth, in the end. No chance to get mobile, here would be a hammer and a blade. The only solution is to go to free. Above I get a wider one, that where break a python at the first touch, then traverse left and cross the Crack Suducului.

LC 10: Lngimea start common with with Crack Surduc. If we want, we can go out and by Surduc, where are the insurance good and the rock is clean. A take in up. We get to the point where Dynamo XXX and Crack Surduc break up. We climb up, on top of a rift clear, provided rarely with pitons rusty. It's a long beautiful, which in the end surplombeaza. I regroup somewhere at 15 meters below the ridge, convenient.

LC 11: the Last 15 meters up in the woods't give us no more trouble, although they are not common. Regroup at the trees.

The route is not a nice one, it is not a route that you repeat with pleasure, is not a route with a logical line and is not a safe path.
Information source
Cătălin Crețu - https://picasaweb.google.com/116734182185530304205/20130428CheileBicazuluiDinamoXXXCuVladCondratov

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Sursă: Wild Ferenc

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