Today we celebrate 64 years since Traversarea Peretelui (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 19 years since Hornul Ursului (Căldarea Hârtopu Ursului) first ascent

Fisura Artei (Crack Art) 6B, 7/7+ (6/6+, A1)
5,00/5 (2 votes)




2395 page views


  • Description
  • Pictures (1)
  • Diaries/Climbs (19)
  • Video (2)
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014
edited by LauraB la data de 14.06.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6B
Mandatory grade: 6/6+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 7/7+
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: salvamontharghita.ro 
Length: 5 pitches
Height: 210 m
Climb duration: 4 - 6 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsOverhangDihedralCrackChimneyRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Alexandru Floricioiu, Horst Hannich, Tudor Hurbean, Nicolae Jitaru, Nicolae Marian, László Boros
Date: 1958
Repaired: Vali Chiriac
Date: 2008


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

One of the most famous the classic trails in the country, with a line of highly beautiful, which prevails in the free climbing required. The route is pretty sustained on the entire length and consists of a fissure-horn continues, which in the final part turns into a diaclaza he climbs up on the inside, without insurance, in the first part, then on the outside following the line of the spiturilor.



Equipment: the Route has been reworked with expansion bolts in belay station and in a few passages. Penultimate length is fully secured with expansion bolts.

Equipment: With half ropes of 60m and 18-20 of the loops, the route can be climbed in 5 lengths, 3 to the fork with the Crack Surduc Great, and still two up on the ridge. Optionally, a few frienduri environments could be useful (sizes equivalent to BD C4 .75-2).

LC 1 (55m): Climb up to the chimney obviously, initially without insurance. After securing a spit, keep the line pitonslor up to a block prominent that you go around on the right side, on the plugs good, but slightly exposed. Above the block can regroup or choose to continue on the crack-dihedral (scaling supported) after which keep the line pitonslor, easy right, in the climbing easy, but on the rock of dubious quality. Regroup, convenient to two expansion bolts.

LC 2 (35m): the Length supported, with many insurance. Climb up 15m on the dihedron easy overhangt, and then dihedron to turn,in the upper part, in chimney. Regroup in a niche potting the two expansion bolts.

LC 3 (55m): climb a chimney fell, with the plugs good, to a wider one, that of where we continue on the chimney what surplombeaza over a boulder embedded in it. The following meters are strongly surploma?i and once through, follow the line of the pitonslor on the face of the right by swiping again in the chimney as it becomes fall. Continue ~15m on the rift what it gradually widens, then becomes a potting and regroup to the two expansion bolts. Our route goes up and to the left. To the right leaving the trail Crack Surduc Great that comes out after 3 lengths in ridge, being a variant more light output than the Crack Art.

LC 4 (~55m): Climb to the left and enter the chimney. Keep up 9m on diaclaza, semidarkness, sneaking through the narrow spaces. Out of the diaclaza, it can ensure the two cams on one face down and after a few meters of climbing in opposition, on the outside, back inside diaclazei. After about 9m follows a passage very narrow (~8m) at the end of which we can ensure a rock embedded in it. Going to go out on a threshold, horizontally, where we cross the ascending right to regurparea marked with two expansion bolts. The length has little insurance, but are in diaclaza is almost impossible to fell.

LC 5 (~27m): Follow the line spiturilor on the front, then in the dihedral. Climbing interesting and very well secured.

LC 6 (~ 30m): After a short stretch of cliff, keep on brâni?e up until we get out in the woods.
Information source
Text - Wild Ferenc - http://www.fsz.bme.hu/mtsz/mhk/egyeb/bekas/bekas.htm


Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: Coming from Bicaz, we can park in a recessed vis-a-vis the Izbucul Mary, before the first bridge (right at the entrance in the Neck of Hell). Cross, down the road on the trail to the spring and immediately catch a trail vague that climbs up through the forest and leads us into a valley steep. Vâlcelul can be followed up to the base of the route, but we also have the option to intuit a path more secure on the slope to the right, ' how to get, as soon as it becomes accessible.
Access duration: 15 min
Retreat route: Umam the path marked with white squares to the south (in the opposite direction Bicaz). The path is interrupted from time to time but keep the direction of the south or the edge of the wall (with the valley on the right). Get on top of a large plate down (the drawing Board) we continue to descend through the forest and catch the path marked with yellow tape on that, before you descend into the riverbed of a creek, we veer right and follow it ~10 minutes to a suspension bridge. Cross the bridge and take the trail along a dike that will get us out in the road about 10 minutes upstream of the karst spring of Mary.
Retreat duration: ~1 h

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Wild Ferenc

Pictures


Sursă: salvamontharghita.ro

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links


  • 04.07.2015 Alin Brădeanu, Pall Endre

Sursă: salvamontharghita.ro

Users who climbed the route


Vasile Dumitrică - 27.05.2018, Vara
- 27.05.2018
Lucian Apostu - 27.05.2018
- 27.05.2018
Radu Ciofringeanu - 14.07.2016, Vara
- 14.07.2016
Andrei Gurgu - 14.07.2016, Vara
- 14.07.2016
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980
- 01.08.1980
LauraB

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Florin-Ciprian Andrecuț - 29.07.2015

Video - Páll Endre - 04.07.2015

Map



Access route: Coming from Bicaz, we can park in a recessed vis-a-vis the Izbucul Mary, before the first bridge (right at the entrance in the Neck of Hell). Cross, down the road on the trail to the spring and immediately catch a trail vague that climbs up through the forest and leads us into a valley steep. Vâlcelul can be followed up to the base of the route, but we also have the option to intuit a path more secure on the slope to the right, ' how to get, as soon as it becomes accessible.
Retreat route: Umam the path marked with white squares to the south (in the opposite direction Bicaz). The path is interrupted from time to time but keep the direction of the south or the edge of the wall (with the valley on the right). Get on top of a large plate down (the drawing Board) we continue to descend through the forest and catch the path marked with yellow tape on that, before you descend into the riverbed of a creek, we veer right and follow it ~10 minutes to a suspension bridge. Cross the bridge and take the trail along a dike that will get us out in the road about 10 minutes upstream of the karst spring of Mary.

Equipment


Sursă: salvamontharghita.ro

Comments