Today we celebrate 86 years since Furcile (Peretele Gălbenelelor) first ascent, 2 years since Memorial Páll Endre (Heaven and Hell) (Piatra Altarului) first ascent

Traseul Finala '64 5B, 6b+/6c (A1/A2)
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  • Diaries/Climbs (4)
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added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014
edited by Ad mini la data de 18.08.2016

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Aid climbing grade: A1/A2
Rotpunkt grade: 6b+/6c
Type: Classic route

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Length: 4 pitches
Height: 70 m
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Emil Coliban, Valentin Garner, Gheorghe Crăciun
Date: 1964


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1: Start with a crack overhangnta, followed by a chimney. After the chimney is coming out on a wider one, that the horizontal rock, under a boulder, on which begins a long stretch to the right. Regroup after about 32m, the spiturile with the chain of a route, climbing without stopping at the rings of old.

LC 2: Startup in the length of 2 is spectacular, a wooden leg through a narrow chimney horizontally with an output of more exposed. The length is just at the crossing, chimney horizontally becomes more tight, after the wooden leg, a portion more open, but then it narrows, forcing us to crawl through him. Regroup at about 4 pitons, tied with a rope old, exactly at the point where the route changes direction, taking her in up.

LC 3: After an extremely easygoing reach a fissure horizontal, where it is moving towards the left. A python at the beginning, immediately a wedge of wood rotten, then a crack good for approx. 10m. The passage is not hard, but it's nice, plugs huge hands, the feet, weaker at times. The difficulty is more psychological seeing the distance that you don't have insurance. Towards the end there are about 3 pitons, the passage is one to which I don't have time to think, you need to go decided.

LC 4: the Last long is easy, short, does not pose a problem, a crack clear, right oblique, which takes us into the woods, on a wider one, that wide. A few pitons (a 3) are in a state of accentuated degradation, cannot be used. You can place insurance mobile or you can proceed with the steps lying in the artificial, to avoid the rings in question.
Information source
Alin Brădeanu - https://picasaweb.google.com/107327912843541180946/18Iunie2011Finala645BCuPallEndre

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Retreat route: Find the tree from which is made the rappel, it's a python beaten into him in the old days, between the time the tree grew and it literally ate the python. It's found right at the edge of the wall vertically. Having 2 ropes of 60m we can go down in a single rappel down to the spring, in the vicinity of the route the Crest Hidden.

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Wild Ferenc

Pictures


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Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



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Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Páll Endre  - 18.06.2011

Map



Retreat route: Find the tree from which is made the rappel, it's a python beaten into him in the old days, between the time the tree grew and it literally ate the python. It's found right at the edge of the wall vertically. Having 2 ropes of 60m we can go down in a single rappel down to the spring, in the vicinity of the route the Crest Hidden.

Equipment


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