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Santinela de la Gâtul Iadului 6A, (A2/A3)
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added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 22.01.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Aid climbing grade: A2/A3
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Romeo Fazekas, Pall Endre 
Length: 7 pitches
Height: 261 m
Climb duration: 6 - 7 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

5 star routePitonsCams/NutsAid climbingOverhangCrackRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Gheorghe Enache (Ceaca), Tudor Hurbean, Pompiliu Pascu, Constantin Ursulescu
Date: 1961


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The LC-1 can address up on the original version, which is the best every, or the STR8 Line, a crack crystal clear, a success backed up, secured with expansion bolts. It brings together a broad threshold overgrown with weeds.

LC-2: the Route continues on to the crack to just below a tavanel, which is around to the left. He then goes on to the crack wide, in the middle of a section without the plugs it is around to the right for about 2 km, reintrându and then it was on to the line of the crack, which turns into a dihedral great. The insurance of the old ones have fallen, useful to a player, that player's fun. The grouping is on the girdle of the sea of grass, the heat of the bottom of the wall.

LC-3: the Length of the start with a chimneyule?. It's a long fairly large, like 50 feet or more, as the chimney is passed to the left of the edge, and then a dihedral, the crack, parts readily brittle, and may be met in one place, with spiturile the The The the Most. The last part of the 2-paths going along a traverse horizontally right to a 5-6m lead us in the pool in about 5 hands at the bottom of a sluice box.

LK 4: Turn on the vertical in the ditch along the slope, at the top it is above a tavanel. And then they go all the way in the macula, the yellow-brown color gives the impression of a hard and brittle, rings are generally not well-fixed. A large wedge of wood to be used, with caution, to cross obliquely the left side, and your at the end of the length of the top.

LK 5: Work out the integral on the macula, an artificial non-stop, A1, A2, A3, shouldn't be too hard, the wall is overhangt. It goes to the left, to the tavanel, and then at the top, and obliquely to the right. A step in the beetle, we get an area with grass, from where you get out of the pool. The grouping is 5, which is common, and the trail of The Lizard, which is continuing on the expansion bolts, a little to the left of the route to the Sentinel.

LK 6: For a short time, keep it up, because as overhanging climbing what you see is what you will have to pay, we're going in oblique to the left. He reaches the edge of the Ceiling 3, the cross actually on the lip of it, under the Ceiling 4, and to a cave.

LC 7: the Last length is a bit short, from the artificial to the right, getting out and then into a ridge of light. To find the last pool, with expansion bolts, the last of the trail of The Lizard. From there, you can go at night, the difficulties are more basic.
Information source
Radu Țiteica, Niculae Baticu - Pe crestele Carpaților
Nomenclatorul traseelor
https://eclimb.ro/print.php?crt=140
Text - Alin Brădeanu - https://picasaweb.google.com/107327912843541180946/16IunieSantinelaDeLaGatulIadului6ACuPallEndre
Poză - Romeo Fazekas, Pall Endre
Poză 2 - Alin Brădeanu - https://picasaweb.google.com/107327912843541180946
Poză 3 - Vlad Condratov - http://vladcondratov.blogspot.ro/2011/06/traseul-lizard-cheile-bicazului.html

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Wild Ferenc

Pictures


Sursă: Romeo Fazekas, Pall Endre

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursă: Romeo Fazekas, Pall Endre

Users who climbed the route


Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Páll Endre - 16.06.2011

Video - Silvia Murgescu - 29.05.2011

Map



Equipment


Sursă: Romeo Fazekas, Pall Endre

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