Hornul Mare 5B, 6b+ (A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 16.04.2019

General characteristics

Classic grade: 5B
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 6b+
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Cătălin Creţu 
Length: 6 pitches
Height: 240 m
Climb duration: 5 - 6 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 


5 star routePitonsCams/NutsChimneyTreesGrassPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Matei Schenn, Avel Ritişan
Date: 1963
First free solo ascent: Oliver Batâr

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The purpose of the route was going through the vents in the upper portion of the Wall Bardosului, providing 80m of ramonaj on the chimneys. The lower third is grassy, with areas risky: traverse the air on the circus of grass unsafe, pitons weak, long passages of free. Those who want to go through only the vents, can enter through the Front of the Sea, then traversing right on the girdle of the array of grass towards the Chimney Great.

LC 1: A crack arching to the right, with the rock very polished. Insurance are rare, they relented, and the feathers of the wood, it can put but friend sites. The crack ends and comes out on top of a face down. Here we cross the long right hand at the grip and at the end we get a wider one, that of grass. Go right on brâna up to a tree. Regroup at the tree even though there are two possibilities of belay station the intermediate on the crossing.

LC 2: Go left on a face to a dihedral that is browse through more than on the face of the left. When it ends the two-flat is reached under a tavanel. Cross the left horizontally under the ceiling about 10-12 feet. Then move everything left after an edge. After the edge cords rub (the length is twisted) and we need to get a step free more delicate. At about 3 m above the regroup at 3 pitons solid minted from top to bottom, near. Regrouping is very air.

LC 3: Follow the two lengths of fallow, that lead to the chaining of the chimneys seen in the valley. Go first on some cracks, traversing to a valley, then left again on a face flushed. We have to be careful to not get in Front of the Sea. In the end, use a wider one, that long grass right oblique. Regroup at a tree again.

LC 3: Go up to the first chimney on a crack grassy. The sockets, the rings are buried in the ground and grass. The last part we go several metres without insurance. We get under the chimney where hardly find a python.

LC 5: Follow a series of 3 chimneys, the first very narrow, not more than 25-30 cm, easy overhangt and with their faces washed, without the slightest bump to help you to move forward. In the interior we can find any 2 pitons. After a threshold high is entering the second chimney, a little wider, the larger issue here is the land of the clay from the inside by which we are to move forward. A bush of wild rose and two trees grown in the interior are other obstacles.

LC 6: the Chimney 3 is bypassed at first by the right. It is the longest, but incomparably more comfortable than the ones before. Go up stretching the rope and regroup at a time (the trees in the area are all dry).
Information source
Topo - Wild Ferenc - http://www.fsz.bme.hu/mtsz/mhk/egyeb/bekas/bekas.htm



Sursă: Wild Ferenc


Sursă: Cătălin Creţu

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Sursă: Cătălin Creţu

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Marian Anghel - 01.09.1997, Vara
- 01.09.1997

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Sursă: Cătălin Creţu