11 yeas ago, Nicolae Dobre was leaving us. Today we celebrate 65 years since Fisura Margaretelor (Peretele din Vâlcelul lui Theodoru (Vâlcelul Ascuns)) first ascent

Traseul 7 Noiembrie 4A, 6b+ (A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 6b+
Type: Classic route

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Length: 3 pitches
Height: 72 m
Climb duration: 1 - 2 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsOverhang

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Gheorghe Udrea, Ion Chiciorea
Date: 1956
Repaired date: 2008
First free solo ascent: Oliver Batâr


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

It is a short route, with clean solid. You can browse and rotpunkt, having a degree of 7/7+. Unfortunately has seen very few runs lately. Great care should be taken to dislodge the stones, because they falls directly into the road.

LC 1: Start by going through a dihedral wet, but easy (grade 3+). It surplombeaza towards the end (8m, A1), and then to get a wider one, that where and regroup.

LC 2: Start up the dihedral, having crossed a small beetle. Cross the short, 2m, on the right, then continue up the crack. After 14m arrive at a small tree, and after the other 4m traverse left 2m to get in the pool. Traverseul is done on a rock a little friable.

LC 3: Start on a chimneyule?, and after 7 km we reach a threshold horizontal. Above 5m, we have a beetle protruding. To get under the beetle will cross the first 3m to the left, then diagonally to the right still 4m, on some stairs rocky. Get overhanging climbing at the free or artificially, and then to follow the rings up in the woods.
Information source
Wild Ferenc - http://www.fsz.bme.hu/mtsz/mhk/egyeb/bekas/bekas.htm

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Wild Ferenc

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