23 August 6B
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added by Ad Min la data de 16.09.2014
edited by Ad Mini la data de 13.09.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6B
Type: Classic route

 23 August 
Orientation: S
Length: 9 pitches
Climb duration: 6 - 7 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsOverhangTraverseCrackChimneyGrassDangerousimpracticable/destroyedPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: László Karácsonyi, Matei Schenn, Aurel Irimia
Date: 1959


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

One of the routes laid out on the South side of the Claii, The "23rd of August" shows the high degree of difficulty, given the length of the course, as well as the many obstacles, one of which was a passageway for the passage of a large plate of sandstone, is extremely difficult.

The first l. C. it starts in the Middle of the Top, the entrance to the trail is located approx. 35 to 40 m to the left and below the point at which the wall is formed, by a sudden change of direction, and a cutting edge, massive, and very steep between the Front of the Treasure, and the Face of the Provided. Here you can see, on the right, the platform that housed the camp of the mountaineers at the time of the first escalade made in the wall.

In the course of the first l. C. following the line of the cracks, interrupted only by the rapids easily with grass and some sticking out. After 10 m. the vegetation is cut; in the next, climb up a crack to easy overhangnta and tilted to the left, up to the height of the threshold, held back by a beetle, on which we live. Beyond that hurdle, there's a problem.

And, from there, the line of greatest slope of the wall (a 2-l. C.), we will climb up along the of the stomach, with the sockets of the solid; with the help of the pitonslor, set out on the trail, it is a beetle, and after that there is a threshold of the pool.

In a 3-l. C. up to the first half of an obstacle, a dihedral, run and then pass for 3 yards to the right, and climb up the line of greatest slope, until the height of the platform, where there's a problem.

On the occasion of the 4th l. C., climb the original is a like a high of approx. 6 m. beyond this, the climb is a little tough, green roof, up to a point where we can make a crossing to the right side. We come, therefore, into the interior of the great chimney, that ploughs the wall in the area of the radius of curvature of the Front of the Treasure, and the Face of the Strungilor.

In a 5-l. C. climb through the ramonaj, the great chimney that is stuck on the upper part of the passage overhangnt top of that I will crack it open, that's a problem.

Climb slightly diagonally to right side (6 i. C.), we get, after a short journey in a rift, the one we follow for approx. For 30 min, after which we'll regroup at a point of high risk, at the end of a floor tile.

7 of the CL. it is conducted in a cross from the right, along with a tile that runs under the ceiling of the overhangs. The lack of a crack for the establishment of clean, safe, as well as the height at which it is carried out the crossing in this passage, no more than 5 meters to be the most difficult item on your itinerary.

Take a couple of days followed, in the course of the 8-to l. C., on the line of the greatest slope of the wall, a series of arches made out of sandstone, divided into over of the cracks. Getting on the plugs, insecure of the two overhangs of what we encounter in this portion is done off a small platform.

9, l. C. shows the road winding along a face tilted with the plugs loose, which leads, finally, to the right, onto a platform, where we perform a new aggregation.

The next two l. C. (10 to 11) are free of obstructions. It takes place over the faces of the grass, and, in part, was covered with clumps of juniper trees, which eventually end up on the Edge of the Claii Great, who, followed by the west, leading into the Saddle of the Claii.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - N. Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 23' 53.2" E 25° 30' 20.6"    
Access route: Follow the Log Path to the Howlers; it would lead-after an hour in the "Bend". From there, after a series of switchbacks, the road continues on the level, and after approx. 10 minutes away from the Spider reaches the V-shaped Treasures. Leaving the Road, Howling, we're on the right tavelgul the Valley of the Treasure, and led directly to the or, bypassing the obstacles along the way.

Soon, the valley and the confluence with the Comorlle Brânei, coming down from the left as you go up). Our route follows in the next thread on the right, referred to as the Valley of the Treasures of the Clali, where the map scale in the lower intervate three jumpers. Soon, we arrive at the confluence of a small valley, descending to the right (how to get) the bottom of it we can distinguish, at a distance of approx. The 80 feet higher.

Parasind the main story, we follow the valley upwards for a distance of approx. 60 m to the right of a hollow (from the left), from which a small spring is resfira the waters over the stones of the wall. From there, to the right, up slightly on the hata?ul the Book at the Top, with the left side wall of the slit vertically from the Chimney of the Sea in the Spring. Identify the line of the route, the 23rd of August, even in the inflection of the wall, in a dihedral-crack, with a lot of grass.
Access duration: 2 - 3 hours
Retreat route: Go in the Middle of Mark up in the Jepii Large or Jepii Small (up to the left or the right, as you prefer) and head down for the tour up in the Logs.
Retreat duration: 2 hours

Topo

Topo

23 August

Pictures


23 August

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23 August

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Map



GPS: N 45° 23' 53.2" E 25° 30' 20.6"    
Access route: Follow the Log Path to the Howlers; it would lead-after an hour in the "Bend". From there, after a series of switchbacks, the road continues on the level, and after approx. 10 minutes away from the Spider reaches the V-shaped Treasures. Leaving the Road, Howling, we're on the right tavelgul the Valley of the Treasure, and led directly to the or, bypassing the obstacles along the way.

Soon, the valley and the confluence with the Comorlle Brânei, coming down from the left as you go up). Our route follows in the next thread on the right, referred to as the Valley of the Treasures of the Clali, where the map scale in the lower intervate three jumpers. Soon, we arrive at the confluence of a small valley, descending to the right (how to get) the bottom of it we can distinguish, at a distance of approx. The 80 feet higher.

Parasind the main story, we follow the valley upwards for a distance of approx. 60 m to the right of a hollow (from the left), from which a small spring is resfira the waters over the stones of the wall. From there, to the right, up slightly on the hata?ul the Book at the Top, with the left side wall of the slit vertically from the Chimney of the Sea in the Spring. Identify the line of the route, the 23rd of August, even in the inflection of the wall, in a dihedral-crack, with a lot of grass.
Retreat route: Go in the Middle of Mark up in the Jepii Large or Jepii Small (up to the left or the right, as you prefer) and head down for the tour up in the Logs.

Equipment


23 August

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