Traseul Central (The Central Route) 5B
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  • Diaries/Climbs (4)
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added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 28.01.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Aid climbing grade: A2/A3
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă: Cătălin Crețu 
Length: 7 pitches
Height: 140 m
Climb duration: 4 - 5 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsAid climbingCrackGrassFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Vasilescu, Gheorghe Iusco, Dorel Nan
Date: 1977


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route is located in the central area of the Stone Bardosului along a fissure continuous on 40m, in lengths of 3 and 4 (from topo - the length of the 3 in the picture). It is a nice trail, but very difficult, with passages moves. The rock is generally compact, and of good quality, but how the route sees few runs, the grass and the muscles have been installed on it, and the rings are solid. Pools are generally suspended and awkward. For expansoare we will need carabiners thin. One of the problems of the route is finding pitonslor hidden by the grass. The lengths can be uni, coming out of the fewer lengths.

LC 1: Climb a dihedral dirty 15m - the first python is quite up - (lower A0, then A1) easy overhangt. Keep 25m on a wider one, that grassy (grade 2) and risky with the thresholds of the earth friable and regroup at the rings on the right hand side.

LC 2: we Continue still 10m on the girdle of grass and earth, this ending under a slab smooth. We'll start a traverseu to the left for 5m to then return across the plate in the traverseu right up in the pool.

LC 3: Cross to the left on the cams removed (4m, A2), then climb a dihedral overhangnt (5m, A2) and we get to the base of the fissure. Get 17 km on the rift and regroup at 4 pitons. If we have enough loops we can continue to join the 2 lengths.

LC 4: go Up the crack (A1) what is the most difficult to free required of the route. Regroup under the 2 niches twins at 4 pitons.

LC 5: we Start with a step stretched out to expansoarele from the right. Then continue artificial on these, the passage being in air. We continue diagonally to the right (13m, A1) to a chimney open and crumbly. Climb 10m on it and regroup convenient to 4 pitons, about 8m under the second niche.

LC 6: up to the second niche on the older plugs and on a rock yellow (grade 3+). Around the niche to the right, the passage being overhangnt (4m, A2). After the other 6m easy (grade 3+) we get to the third niche (a kind of cave) where regroup, convenient to the 2 pitons.

LC 7: Continue up in ramonaj 5m, then 2m on the outside on the right wall (grade 5-). Out above the niche in a very air (the place where we see a second niche to the left). Go around it on the right wall and after 5m of A0 and 15m on land easy (3-) regroup at a tree (or earlier at a corner of the cliff).
Information source
Wild Ferenc - http://www.fsz.bme.hu/mtsz/mhk/egyeb/bekas/bekas.htm
Nomenclatorul traseelor - Dan Vasilescu, Vlad Petcu, G. Iusco, M.Petcu
Poză - Cătălin Crețu - https://picasaweb.google.com/116734182185530304205/20100509CheileBicazuluiTraseulCentral5BPereteleLaposuluiCuVladCondratov

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: To get to the base of the Wall of lapos it goes, initially, on the triungiul red, starting on the same path with access to the Stone Altar. The mark it leaves when we get to the river, under the Stone Altar. We then a couple of footpaths poorly outlined, with the aim to reach the saddle north of the monolith, where we orient ourselves initially on a ridge with fir trees, then to the left, taking care not to descend too far to the Lapo?. Finally we get to the base of the Wall of lapos.
Retreat route: The descent is done by holding to the right the line of the ridge up to a saddle small from which begins a valley, to the right, on whose strand, to the valley, I see a few birches. Down on the valley, on wet grass and then catch a trail through the woods. Keep a curve of the level until we get back under the Stone Altar, where we descend into Lapo? and, further, on the marking of the red triangle, through the woods, towards the road.

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Wild Ferenc

Pictures


Sursă: Cătălin Crețu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Sursă: Cătălin Crețu

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Páll Endre - 18.08.2012

Map



Access route: To get to the base of the Wall of lapos it goes, initially, on the triungiul red, starting on the same path with access to the Stone Altar. The mark it leaves when we get to the river, under the Stone Altar. We then a couple of footpaths poorly outlined, with the aim to reach the saddle north of the monolith, where we orient ourselves initially on a ridge with fir trees, then to the left, taking care not to descend too far to the Lapo?. Finally we get to the base of the Wall of lapos.
Retreat route: The descent is done by holding to the right the line of the ridge up to a saddle small from which begins a valley, to the right, on whose strand, to the valley, I see a few birches. Down on the valley, on wet grass and then catch a trail through the woods. Keep a curve of the level until we get back under the Stone Altar, where we descend into Lapo? and, further, on the marking of the red triangle, through the woods, towards the road.

Equipment


Sursă: Cătălin Crețu

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