Don Corleone 5A, 7+ (6+, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 10.08.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 7+
Type: Classic route

 LC 3 - LC 8 + începutul LC 9. Sursă foto: Rupi 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: N
Length: 10 pitches
Altitude: 2000 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 6 - 7 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsGrassFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Cornel Sain, Răzvan Pârvu, Mihnea Rădulescu, Ioni Mânzatu
Date: 08.2000
Repaired: Cornel Sain
Date: 02.10.2019
First winter ascent: Ioni Mânzatu, Viorel Amzăroiu
Date: 10.02.2001


Route description

It is the longest route from Gălbenele Wall, alternating sustained pitches, with easy terrain where we climb quickly. The route was re-equipped with 12 mm bolts in both belay stations and pitches. The route has large water infiltrations in pitch 1 and 7, so it is good to enter after longer periods of drought (1 week without any rain).

Pitch 1: Climbs a compact face, 7-8m, secured with 3 bolts. We reach a grassy ledge, at the base of the grassy crack. We enter the crack, sometimes coming out on the compact left face. We come out at the end of the crack on a grassy ledge, we traverse to right, under a slab, aiming a small overhang to our right. We pass the overhang (2 old, manufactured bolts) on the right side of it, we go a little more vertical and we go on a traverse to left, 3-4m, on an easy but beautiful face. Up another 5-6m, we have 1 bolt, then we go 4-5m traverse to the left, we exit on a grassy ledge (here is another bolt, useful especially for the seconding partner), and we go to the left until the end. 62m, grade 6-, the belayer will have to go simul climb for a few meters.

Pitch 2: Up on the dihedral, we pass the left edge and go out on easy ground, having more possibilities to climb. We first climb a small gully to the right, then we go up slightly right on ledges, having on our right a large slab. We aim the 2 large trees (larches), between 2 obvious dihedrals. Our route continues on the dihedral on the right, at the base of which we find the belay station. 40m, grade 5

Pitch 3: Up on the crack and face. After 5-6m the face becomes a slab, the terrain is easy. We go out through a small gully to the right and arrive at a huge grassy ledge. 10m further to the right is R1 from the Grotelor route. 30m, grade 4+

Pitch 4: We go to the left over the grassy ledges, aiming a small dihedral of 6-7m (you can see a bolt on the left side of it). After the dihedral, the terrain becomes easy, we walk on compact slabs. Belay station is at the base of the overhang. 40m, grade 4-

Pitch 5: We clip in the old belay station (on pitons), then we turn right towards the overhang. The first piton is quite high, extended with a sling. The next protection is a bolt (on the left). A small traverse to the right, towards 2 pitons (the first is very weak), up to the next bolt, where difficulties end and the inclination decreases. Up on the crack, which is a bit loose, we reach a small platform, and then we have a new crack (with a piton with a ring at the base and a bolt up on its left) but very loose. It is recommended to clip the piton with a ring, then turn left and climb on the compact slab. We arrive at the belay station form Grotelor route. From this moment the 2 routes go together for the next 40m. If we still have 4-5 quickdraws, and we don't have rope drag, we can continue, over 15m we have another belay station, more confortable. 32m, grade 7+ at the overhang

Pitch 6: We traverse to the right, under a small roof, then up on the slightly loose crack, until a generous platform where we have a belay station. Up on a gully like crack, we go out into a small amphitheater. We clip the 3 consecutive pitons and go out on a small ledge. To the left, the Grotelor route continues. Our route is to the right. We clip the bolt, we pass the 2 pitons (the old belay station) and we arrive at the new belay station. In winter it can be an ideal bivouac place. 45m, grade 6-

Pitch 7: The beginning of the pitch is almost always wet, even after dry periods. We cross again to the left, and we engage on a compact face, with a crack oriented to the right. After passing this we engage on the dihedral, which is very nice, compact and sustained. We exit it on the right side, and exit on a grassy ledge where we have the belay station. 35m, grade 7 when crossing the face

Pitch 8: Up on a beautiful but short face. We clip a bolt, a piton, then another bolt, then we continue to the right. After the third bolt, even if we are tempted to go up on easy terrain, the pitch continues to the right, on the crack system (often with some grass). We arrive in a small amphitheatre we clip a golden piton and we go the the belay station on a big flake. 35m, grade 6-

Pitch 9: It is the most sustained pitch, having the mandatory grade of the route (at the end of the pitch). We go up, slightly to the left until the second bolt. From there we traverse to the right, to a rusty piton (doubled by a bolt). We pass a compact face, a short traverse to the left, and we start climbing a short dihedral (well protected). We have another short traverse to the left then we continue on a right orientated slab towards the next dihedral. We traverse right under the overhang, we clip the bolt, then up towards the dihedral. After we clipped the bolt from the dihedral, we have 4-5 meters of mandatory climbing, on the dihedral then on the right face. We clip a last bolt, on easy terrain, and we arrive at the belay station. 52m, grade 6+

Pitch 10: Traverse to the left, clip one piton. Go up the wide crack, which is a bit loose, clip one bolt. A few meters up, we go slightly to the right on a compact slab, but without fixed gear (the original variant is up, on the gully, where we also have a piton, but it is very loose). We continue on grassy terrain and we arrive at the ridge. Belay station at a bolt and a piton.  30m, grade 5
Information source
topo - fralpinism - http://www.fralpinism.ro/?cat=142

Access and retreat

GPS: N 45° 25' 52.2" E 25° 29' 45.6"    
Access route: We climb Valea Gălbenele (either directly or on the right, on Secundarul Gălbenele - Hornul dintre Fire), we climb the last step (which has a bolt on the boulder on the right). We get close to the wall, seeing the grassy crack that cuts the compact face on our left side
Retreat route: If we don't climb the last pitch, we can absail from Belay station #9 over the route to belay station #5. From there, down through the Grotelor route to Valea Gălbenele.

If we climb the last pitch, you can absail over the Flamingo (8 absails that gets you to Grotelor route), or climb up to Brâna Mare a Coștilei - Valea Scoruș - Valea Gălbenele - Refugiu Coștila.

Topo

Topo

Don Corleone

Pictures


LC 3 - LC 8 + începutul LC 9. Sursă foto: Rupi

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



LC 3 - LC 8 + începutul LC 9. Sursă foto: Rupi

Users who climbed the route


Valentin Mozes - 11.08.2020
- 11.08.2020
Andrei Badea - 09.07.2020, Vara
- 09.07.20206LC si continuare prin Grotelor spre creastă
Andrei Badea - 09.07.2020
- 09.07.2020Partial. 6/10 lungimi

Users who wish to climb the route


Stefan

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 52.2" E 25° 29' 45.6"    
Access route: We climb Valea Gălbenele (either directly or on the right, on Secundarul Gălbenele - Hornul dintre Fire), we climb the last step (which has a bolt on the boulder on the right). We get close to the wall, seeing the grassy crack that cuts the compact face on our left side
Retreat route: If we don't climb the last pitch, we can absail from Belay station #9 over the route to belay station #5. From there, down through the Grotelor route to Valea Gălbenele.

If we climb the last pitch, you can absail over the Flamingo (8 absails that gets you to Grotelor route), or climb up to Brâna Mare a Coștilei - Valea Scoruș - Valea Gălbenele - Refugiu Coștila.

Equipment


LC 3 - LC 8 + începutul LC 9. Sursă foto: Rupi

Comments