Creasta Estică (East Ridge) 4A
4,67/5 (3 votes)




2850 page views


  • Description
  • Pictures (1)
  • Diaries/Climbs (43)
  • Video (3)
  • Equipment
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014
edited by LauraB la data de 12.06.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6
Quickdraws: around 13
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Creasta Estică 
Orientation: E
Length: 6 pitches
Height: 190 m
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Recommended season: spring - autumn
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsRidgeGrassRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Matei Schenn, Anton Fogarascher
Date: 1952
Repaired date: 2006


Route description

First pitch: from the grassy saddle we equip ourselves we start on an easy and dusty dihedral, secured with two pegs. Above it we continue on the easy terrain of the ridge. Long pitch, 60m. We set a belay station built out of slings. On this part of the route there are not many in place protections. 

Second pitch: we continue on easy terrain until we encounter a more vertical peak, the difficulty grows a little. After about 10-15 meters of close to vertical wall and 3 pegs, we continue on the ridge. We set the belay station at two anchors, a little to the right of the ridge. It is here the ridge becomes vertical. This was a long pitch, more than 60m, determining us to simul climb. If done properly, it would turn two pitches. 

Third pitch: we continue above the belay station with a vertical wall. The first 3 meters are harder, then the terrain gets easier, as we continue on the crack until the grassy ledge above, we find the belay station. A short pitch with plenty in place protection.

Fourth pitch: continue on the rock face above the belay, until you encounter a small flake. Above it we turn slightly right on a dusty slab, sometimes encountering grass. The belay is at the end of the slab, before the trees appear. 

Fifth pitch: continue between the trees until you find a dihedral formed by the proximity of two walls. At the base of the dhiedral you will find an anchor. Above the dihedral follow the easy terrain, secured by several pegs, until the peak of Piatra Altarului wall. We regrouped at the small trees close to the peak, with the back at the large cross.

Information source
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2014/10/21/creasta-estica-din-piatra-altarului-cheile-bicaz/
Topo - http://mariusgrigoras.blogspot.ro/

Access and retreat

Access route: From the old Cheile Bicazului Hut touristic complex walk towards the Lapos river. Immediately after crossing the bridge the street we turn right through the first courtyard. At the end of the courtyard we find a clear trail going left, then up through the woods. Sometimes it is marked. After around 10 minutes of walking the path gets to a crossroads (marked by a white rectangle drawed on a tree on the right). We go on the right trail, cross the river and continue going up around 10 minutes until we get at the base of the wall. We are next to Piatra Altarului
When we get at the base of the wall, we start traversing right. When we get out of the forrest for a short while and a grassy ledge opens up to the right, it is time to grass-climb a little until we get to the saddle at th end of the wall.
Access duration: 45 min
Retreat route: Descent route: 25 meters behind the cross, towards a commemorative sign placed on a wall, the trail descends right, close to an overhanging wall. the descends becomes steep two metallic handrails are set in place. At the end of the handrails there is an old pine that was used as belay station. Nowadays, a modern belay station is set in wall, right above the wall we must descend.

After a long abseil we get on a large grassy ledge. here you can have another abseil right to the base of the wall, but we proffered to descend by foot on the ledge to the left. It is sometimes secured with cables and the terrain is easy.

Once we get in the forest, we continue to descend keeping close to the wall, until we reached the initial crossroad (where we turned left for the grassy ledge). In 10 minutes we are back to the car.
Retreat duration: 30 min

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Wild Ferenc

Pictures


Creasta Estică

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Aleksandr Kramarenko - 04.06.2018

Video - Alpin Club Bacau - 23.10.2014

Video - Páll Endre - 06.02.2011

Map



Access route: From the old Cheile Bicazului Hut touristic complex walk towards the Lapos river. Immediately after crossing the bridge the street we turn right through the first courtyard. At the end of the courtyard we find a clear trail going left, then up through the woods. Sometimes it is marked. After around 10 minutes of walking the path gets to a crossroads (marked by a white rectangle drawed on a tree on the right). We go on the right trail, cross the river and continue going up around 10 minutes until we get at the base of the wall. We are next to Piatra Altarului
When we get at the base of the wall, we start traversing right. When we get out of the forrest for a short while and a grassy ledge opens up to the right, it is time to grass-climb a little until we get to the saddle at th end of the wall.
Retreat route: Descent route: 25 meters behind the cross, towards a commemorative sign placed on a wall, the trail descends right, close to an overhanging wall. the descends becomes steep two metallic handrails are set in place. At the end of the handrails there is an old pine that was used as belay station. Nowadays, a modern belay station is set in wall, right above the wall we must descend.

After a long abseil we get on a large grassy ledge. here you can have another abseil right to the base of the wall, but we proffered to descend by foot on the ledge to the left. It is sometimes secured with cables and the terrain is easy.

Once we get in the forest, we continue to descend keeping close to the wall, until we reached the initial crossroad (where we turned left for the grassy ledge). In 10 minutes we are back to the car.

Equipment


Rope: 60m halfropes
Quickdraws: around 13
Cams and nuts: one set of nuts
Creasta Estică

Comments