65 yeas ago, Andrei Ghiţescu was leaving us.

Vis Suspendat TD+, (6, A2)
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 21.11.2017

General characteristics


French grade: TD+
Mandatory grade: 6
Mixed climbing grade: M5
Aid climbing grade: A2
Type: Classic route

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Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: N
Length: 7 pitches
Altitude: 2000 m
Height: 270 m
Recommended season: winter
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsAid climbingPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Justin Ionescu, Adi Margea, Teofil Vlad, Emilian Robert Camerzan
Date: 08-16.02.2008


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1-2: IT was a long hard enough the front and then some cracks in the traverseu to the right, about A1, and then a length of face down grassy and snowy who went to free.

LC 3-5: the Following 3 lengths were the icing on the cake. I am glad that I have returned the portions most beautiful/ hard/ technical. In length of 5-I gave a crack oblique to the right, over a plate of huge, detached which sounds very strange. The only option was on there. I mounted a 2 nuts, a piton and then I went into the rift. There's a crack closed where I managed to plant a piton he entered about 2 cm then a microfriend and then a nut that stood between two crystals. It was a passage that consumed me pretty much mentally, and technically, every placement was difficult and it took me long enough to find out.

LC 6: it'S a portion that leads to a dihedral perfectly, the dihedral what I had seen from below. Up there I try to go to free and with the help of a friend deep in a hole/cave, a python in which I put a shock-absorber and a friend get under the dihedral. It's gorgeous, the dihedral of 90*, with a crack in the middle. A few placements good then again a succession of placements that make you grit your teeth when you want to upload the stirrup... ... All I'm hoping for a python big where I can heave a sigh of relief but it seems that the place for a such python is not here. Still a nut, what creaks, and ... nothing. I keep looking, crawl with still a step up in the stirrups, but nothing that I can find and be more or less ok. The only option would be a cliff and then still a few placements shaky until I get something more reliable. Out clifful and I'm trying, I'm looking for a socket or something... Find a socket, but it's not for me. It is drained and under me probably about 3-4 insurance that would not keep if I now give a knockdown. Plus, you under me I'm waiting for a wider one, that wide enough.
I'm trying to think about the cold, I don't want to beat a spit! Not for this, not for passing by and not here, in the dihedron this gorgeous. I'm looking for more options, spend a second to think about it, but eventually I hear strigâdu him Emil: send borma?inaaa!! I'm sorry, but I'm not willing to risk more. So I can here and now!
The next piece is a climbing, semi-dark and I'm trying to go as long as possible. In the end I put the belay station more because of the darkness and down the stairs.

Equipment:
30 pitons
3 sets frienduri
2 sets nuts
15 loops equipped + 30 carabe simple
20 hog rings
1 per. axes, 1 per. angles
1 static rope 70m; 1 chord dynamic 60m; 2 half ropes 50m
2 portaledge 5 haulbag sites Black Diamond
the drill and expansion bolts

It's a stretch that leads to a dihedral perfectly, the dihedral what I'd seen from below. Up there I try to go to free and with the help of a friend shoved deep in a hole/cave, a python in which I put a shock-absorber and another friend get under the dihedral. It's gorgeous, the dihedral of 90*, with a crack in the middle. A few placements good then again a succession of placements that make you grit your teeth when you want to upload the stirrup... ... All I'm hoping for a python soundly where I can relax but it seems like the place for a such python is not here. Still a nut what scart and.. nothing. I'm looking at you, crawl with still a step up in the stirrups but nothing that I find to be somewhat ok. The only option would be a cliff and then a few more placements of cards to get to something more reliable. Out clifful and I'm trying, I'm looking for a socket or something.. Find a socket but it's not for me. Is also drained and underneath me there are probably about a 3-4 insurance that would not if I now give a knockdown. Plus under me waiting for me a brane pretty wide.
I'm trying to think of cool, I don't want to beat a spit! Not for this, not for passing and not here, in the dihedron that gorgeous. I'm looking for more options, spend a second to think but eventually I hear strigadu him Emil: send bormasinaaa!! I'm sorry but I'm not willing to risk more. So I can here and now!
The next piece a mule on semiintuneric and I try to walk as much as possible. In the end I put the belay station more because of the darkness and down the stairs.
I'm broke from fatigue and I can't wait to sleep. - See more at: http://www.alternativetm.ro/evenimente/vis-suspendat#sthash.nqcQmynk.dpuf
Information source
www.alternativetm.ro - http://www.alternativetm.ro/evenimente/vis-suspendat

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 52.2" E 25° 29' 45.6"    

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Vis Suspendat

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GPS: N 45° 25' 52.2" E 25° 29' 45.6"    

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