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On 17.09.1919 Busuioc Păun was born. Today we celebrate 82 years since Marea Surplombă - varianta cu ieşire în Creastă (Peretele Gălbenelelor) first ascent, 60 years since Piciorul Judelui Mare (Faţa dinspre Turnul Porţii) (Vârful Judele (Mare)) first ascent, 1 year since Tărâmul Celălalt (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent

Creasta Coştila-Gălbenele 3A, 5c (4b/4b+, A0)
4,80/5 (5 votes)




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  • Description
  • Pictures (3)
  • Diaries/Climbs (121)
  • Video (7)
  • Map
  • Equipment
  • Comments (1)
added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 18.04.2021

General characteristics

Classic grade: 3A
Mandatory grade: 4b/4b+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 5c
Quickdraws: 10-12
Type: Classic route
 Sursă foto: Rupi 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: E
Length: 12 pitches
Altitude: 1900 m
Height: 450 m
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

5 star routePitonsChemical anchorsMechanical anchorsSlabRidgeDihedralCrackTreesGrassRecommendedFantasticRope

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Niculae Baticu, Dan Popescu, Toma Boerescu, Constantin Conteş
Date: 31.05.1936
First winter ascent: Valentin Atanasiu, Pompiliu Moise, Mircea Bogdan
Date: 19.03.1950

Route description

Pitch 1 (40m, 4): We climb a compact slab, beautiful and easy climb. Belay station under the big pinnacle (Pintenul Coştilei), which we can see from the bottom. The pitch has 3-4 in place protection. Belay station 2 pitons.

Pitch 2 (20m, 5+): We climb to the left, then start an exposed traverse, but with plenty of pitons. Belay station behind the the pinnacle, at 2 pitons. Very short pitch.

Pitch 3 (60m, 1): We climb (without ropes), through small trees and junipers, a trail which leads us to a slab.

Pitch 4 (55m, 4): We climb the slab (on the right) until we reach a big overhang. The pitch has 2/3 pitons and a small tree (we can put a sling here). Belay station on an anchor and a piton. From here start upwards Mr. Teacher (Domn' Profesor) on a crack.

Pitch 5 (40m, 4+): From here start the route (as it was climbed first time). We traverse to the left on a big ledge, at the end of the ledge we climb upwards a crack. Belay station at an anchor.

Pitch 6 (60m, 1): Goes through the junipers. Belay station after 60 meters at 2 anchors.

Pitch 7 (30m, 5+): Goes upwards on a small dihedral, then traverse to the right. We continue on another dihedral, then a crack, and we arrive at the belay station. This pitch has plenty of pitons.

Pitch 8 (25m, 6+): It is the hardest pitch of the route (6/6+ 5c /6a). We climb the right crack (just above the belay station, the left crack looks easier, but has no in place protection), which has plenty pitons. We exit on a ledge at a belay station.

Pitch 9 (35m, 5): We climb to the left a crack, continue left on a ledge, then exit on a loose and grassy section. Belay station at one anchor.

Pitch 10 (55 m, 3): We climb an easy and loose section, continue with a chimney, exit through some junipers. We arrive at a slab, having 2 anchors at the base, but we can continue upwards and make a belay station under a chimney (an anchor and a piton).

Pitch 11 (25m, 5+): We continue climbing the chimney, having 2 exits. On the left face (harder), or through the right (easier). Belay station on a ledge.

Pitch 12 13 (60m, 5+):We climb an easy slab, grade 2, continue with a ramp (small chimney) to an intermediate belay station (2/3 pitons). After we pass it, we start traversing to the left, on a ramp, then continue on the ridge until we arrive at a small pinnacle (small rocky formation). Here (about 60 meters from the start) we look carefully for the anchor above the rock (under the junipers). It is not very obvious.

We continue on the ridge until we reach Coştila Big Ledge (Brâna Mare a Coştilei).

The route can be done in fewer pitches, if we choose to link 2 or more pitches or go simul-climbing.
Information source
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2014/05/13/creasta-costila-galbinele-muntii-bucegi/
Bucegi Turism Alpinism, ediţia a 2-a - Emilian Cristea, N. Dimitriu, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000
alpinet.org - http://alpinet.org/main/articole/blog_en_id_3088_userid_0_print_1.html
Mihai Dăiţoiu - http://via-aventura.blogspot.ro/

Access and retreat

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: We climb behind Coştila Refuge, to the end of Țancul Ascuțit. We continue upwards on a trail which leads us to
Gălbenele Valley, and continue upwards toward a big slab, just below the actual ridge.
Retreat route: We climb the ridge until we arrive at Coştila Big Ledge (Brâna Mare a Coştilei), continue on the trail to the left until we reach Gelepeanu Chimnez (Hornul lui Gelepeanu).

a) continue towards White Valley - La Verdeaţă - Munticelu;
b) climb the chimney, exit on the plateau to Releul Coştila;
c) climb down White Valley Ridge, on which we can descend. While descending we will find some red anchors, from which we can abseil (in case of fatigue or bad weather). We traverse Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană(small ledge with a chain). We down climb in a gully, until we reach it's end, then traverse to the left, entering a second gully, which we down climb them using some chains. After the last chain ends, we down climb another 50 meters, then continue on the small trail on the right ridge.. We traverse a small ledge to the right, then down climbing a small gully using a chain. We will arrive back where we started, at La Pândă. In 20 minutes we are back at Coştila Refuge.

Topo

Topo

Creasta Coştila-Gălbenele

Pictures

Sursă foto: Rupi

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it

Diaries & links


  • 04.03.2019 Dan Colniceanu
  • 24.06.2017 Cristi E., Florin
  • 10.09.2016 Badea Nicolae, Laur, Mihai Dragomir
  • 04.08.2016 Nicolae Badea, Aurel Rosu
  • 21.02.2016 Vali Oprea, Urucu Marius
 Sursă foto: Rupi

Users who climbed the route


Stanciu Gabriel - 05.08.2021, Vara
 - 05.08.2021
Bogdan Lazăr - 05.08.2021, Vara
 - 05.08.2021
csorikisti - 02.09.2020, Vara
 - 02.09.2020https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=38336112466...
Adrian Scurtu - 23.08.2020, Vara
 - 23.08.2020
Adrian Scurtu - 08.08.2020, Vara
 - 08.08.2020
Dan Ciubotaru - 08.08.2020, Vara
 - 08.08.2020
Valentin Mozes - 18.07.2020, Vara
 - 18.07.2020Lc8 cap coarda.
Gabriel Marin - 18.07.2020, Vara
 - 18.07.2020Lc8 cap coarda.
Bogdan Lazăr - 18.07.2020, Vara
 - 18.07.2020Lc8 cap coarda.
Iulian Bogatu - 27.06.2020, Vara
 - 27.06.2020
Andrei Badea - 11.01.2020, Iarna
 - 11.01.2020
Constantinescu Anita - 07.12.2019, Iarna
 - 07.12.2019
Goran Ciprian GORBY - 07.11.2019
 - 07.11.2019
Cristian Marin - 26.09.2019, Vara
 - 26.09.2019
Constantinescu Anita - 06.07.2019
 - 06.07.2019
Lepitsch - 06.07.2019, Vara
 - 06.07.2019
Vasile Dumitrică - 30.06.2019, Vara
 - 30.06.2019
Iulian Bogatu - 30.06.2019, Vara
 - 30.06.2019
Constantinescu Anita - 19.01.2019, Iarna
 - 19.01.2019cu Jabon athlete si Andrei athlete
Andrei Badea - 01.09.2018, Vara
 - 01.09.2018
Dorin Cristea - 04.08.2018
 - 04.08.2018
Adrian Scurtu - 03.08.2018, Vara
 - 03.08.2018
Constantinescu Anita - 29.07.2018, Vara
 - 29.07.2018
Victor Anica - 14.07.2018, Vara
 - 14.07.2018
Adrian Scurtu - 09.09.2017, Vara
 - 09.09.2017
Alina Madalina Rosu - 01.08.2017
 - 01.08.2017
Adrian Mihai - 30.06.2017
 - 30.06.2017https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10211...
Dorin Cristea - 25.06.2017, Vara
 - 25.06.2017
Mihai Barbu - 16.07.2016, Vara
 - 16.07.2016
Andrei Badea - 29.05.2016, Vara
 - 29.05.2016
Victor Anica - 14.11.2015, Vara
 - 14.11.2015
Alina Madalina Rosu - 08.08.2015
 - 08.08.2015https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1020482...
sabina.d - 29.07.2015, Vara
 - 29.07.2015
Mihai Barbu - 13.06.2015, Vara
 - 13.06.2015
LauraB - 14.02.2015
 - 14.02.2015
Dimitrie Manole - 27.07.2014
 - 27.07.2014
Wilhelm Martini - 01.01.1982, Vara
 - 01.01.1982
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
 - 01.08.1980
Alexandru Anton - 01.01.1900, Vara
Andrei Dumitrache - 01.01.1900
Andrei Dumitrache - 01.01.1900
Andrei Gurgu

Users who wish to climb the route


Andrei Vlad
Chereches Cristian
Stefan
DorinB

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it

Video - Valentin Mozes - 18.07.2020

Video - Goran Ciprian GORBY - 27.06.2020

Video - Mihai Sava - 16.05.2020

Video - Mihai Sava - 16.05.2020

Video - MihailsiAndreea Cernat - 25.03.2018

Video - Gabriela Gomoi - 06.09.2011

Video - Páll Endre - 31.08.2010

Map

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: We climb behind Coştila Refuge, to the end of Țancul Ascuțit. We continue upwards on a trail which leads us to
Gălbenele Valley, and continue upwards toward a big slab, just below the actual ridge.
Retreat route: We climb the ridge until we arrive at Coştila Big Ledge (Brâna Mare a Coştilei), continue on the trail to the left until we reach Gelepeanu Chimnez (Hornul lui Gelepeanu).

a) continue towards White Valley - La Verdeaţă - Munticelu;
b) climb the chimney, exit on the plateau to Releul Coştila;
c) climb down White Valley Ridge, on which we can descend. While descending we will find some red anchors, from which we can abseil (in case of fatigue or bad weather). We traverse Aeriană Ledge - Brâna Aeriană(small ledge with a chain). We down climb in a gully, until we reach it's end, then traverse to the left, entering a second gully, which we down climb them using some chains. After the last chain ends, we down climb another 50 meters, then continue on the small trail on the right ridge.. We traverse a small ledge to the right, then down climbing a small gully using a chain. We will arrive back where we started, at La Pândă. In 20 minutes we are back at Coştila Refuge.

Equipment

Quickdraws: 10-12
Sursă foto: Rupi

Comments