Bebe şi Mircea 6A, 6b (6a, A1)
0.00/5 (0 votes)




2167 page views


  • Description
  • Pictures (2)
  • Diaries/Climbs (6)
  • Video (1)
  • Map
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 11.09.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Mandatory grade: 6a
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 6b
Type: Classic route

 Bebe şi Mircea 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 6 pitches
Altitude: 2100 m
Height: 200 m
Climb duration: 6 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Emil Coliban
Date: 1979
First rotpunkt ascent: Cornel Sain


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Length 1, 40m: Start from the left side of the clearing. This is the first route with access from glade (followed by Poseidon). Something above, can distinguish, with difficulty, the inscription “Baby and Mircea”, and a python red. The route goes up, following a sequence of thresholds friable, and having as a part the ceiling (what will be traversed in the length of 2). Rings are rare, and the possibilities of protection - more precarious, but the climbing is easy. The grouping is done on a wider one, that chest of drawers, just before the ceiling, where they are 3 pitons well beaten.


Length 2, 30m: Start with crossing the left and through the ceiling, secured by 4 pitons that seem solid. The movement out of the ceiling seems exposed, but can be protected: there is a python that can be reached from the ceiling. The trail continues crossing the left, on a crack oblique. Rings are more rare here, but can put the mobile. Climbing is a little more supported, including after the exit from the ceiling, but becomes easier before belay station. Pool has 2 pitons and is uncomfortable. You can choose the option to regroup in Scaparici 2 expansion bolts, which is on a brâni?a chest of drawers to the right, only 5-6 m of the pool initial.


Length 3, 45m: Can put the problems of orientation: directly start up, where at about 10 metres a python. Rings are pretty rare still, but the line route is mainly in the top, watching as part of a crack colored, strong in grey. Here is the portion most difficult to the length. On the crack, near the pitons can put and mobile. After overcoming the crack line pitonslor keep up, but on the right is belay station (2 pitons) and you can see a spit of the Sparkles. The length is very crumbly, and the possibilities of insurance up to the crack gray are modest. In rift there are several pitons.


Length 4, 30m: Continue on the left of the pool, on line pitonslor, steering slightly left. On this stretch rings are more frequent, and the line route is easier to follow. It climbs in the direction of a cluster of pitons nailed into a well (visible from the pool). After these follows a portion of the front secured 3 old expansion bolts, and that does not inspire much confidence from a fall. Spiturile are very close and can move on to artificial. Over the entire length, the climbing is sustained - it is the most heavy length of climbing. Regrouping is right at the base of a crack-dihedral that continues the next length.


Length 5, 25m: Go straight up a crack-dihedral, where the pitons and on which you can put and mobile. The length is short, sustained, but lighter than the previous ones. Regrouping is 3 pitons a little spaced - hard equalized. (Here you can put the mobile).


The length of 6, 50m: Continuous up-mining on the left of the pool. It follows a portion easy overhangta which is exceeded by the right, and then back to the left and then up. Rings are rare, but the line route is easier to follow. Arriving at a small brâna where are the 2 pitons. It can regroup here in order to avoid friction (which will be very high once you're up). Alternatively, the climbing continues for another 15-20m to the exit. The area here is very crumbly. Climb to the left of the pool the interim, until a pipe solid. Here, to the right is a dihedral with a crack uninsured (approx 4-5m). The route line is to the left, over another dihedral parallel, and easier. Regrouping is located at the exit from the dihedral to the 2 pitons solid.
Information source

Surse de informații: Rudolf Nagy, Matei Popovici, Constantinescu Anita


Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 48.6" E 25° 29' 52.9"    
Access route: Access: the same as the route to Poseidon. From the thread side of the Valley Co?tilei at 2100m altitude it traverses right on a wider one, that clear, by a meadow with greenery. Two red arrows indicate the entrance to brâna. There is at least a python for a possible insurance of the crossing.

Retreat route: It climbs the ridge up in the Girdle of the High Co?tilei, and from there on the path of withdrawal be on the Crest of the Valley White-Girdle of the Air be the Valley Scoru?ilor - Valley of Marigolds.
We can retreat back into the Valley Co?tilei through the route of Poseidon.

Topo

Topo

Bebe şi Mircea

Pictures


Bebe şi Mircea

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Bebe şi Mircea

Users who climbed the route


Constantinescu Anita - 01.09.2018
- 01.09.2018
Jabon - 01.09.2018
- 01.09.2018

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Mihai Sava - 01.09.2018

Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 48.6" E 25° 29' 52.9"    
Access route: Access: the same as the route to Poseidon. From the thread side of the Valley Co?tilei at 2100m altitude it traverses right on a wider one, that clear, by a meadow with greenery. Two red arrows indicate the entrance to brâna. There is at least a python for a possible insurance of the crossing.

Retreat route: It climbs the ridge up in the Girdle of the High Co?tilei, and from there on the path of withdrawal be on the Crest of the Valley White-Girdle of the Air be the Valley Scoru?ilor - Valley of Marigolds.
We can retreat back into the Valley Co?tilei through the route of Poseidon.

Equipment


Bebe şi Mircea

Comments