Today we celebrate 61 years since Trandafirul Negru (Peretele Mare din Padina Popii) first ascent

Poseidon 5A, 6a+ (6a+, A0)
4,00/5 (3 votes)




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  • Description
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  • Diaries/Climbs (14)
  • Video (2)
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 16.08.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 6a+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6a+
Quickdraws: 14-15
Type: Classic route

 Poseidon 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 6 pitches
Altitude: 2100 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 4 - 5 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsLoose rocksRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Viorel Nicolaescu
Date: 1979
Repaired: Vlad Popa


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1: Starts on brâna on a face down (the first spit is pretty high and there is no belay station on the brâna), then catch a fisurica what goes up in the pool. 6-7 insurance fixed (all expansion bolts) on the entire length. Regroup uncomfortable.

LC 2: up the crack, then in traverseu the left, under an arch, a few metres away. After ending the arch, continue up on a fisurica, then in traverseu right on a vertical plate up to an area slightly crumbly by a crack which leads to a surplombi?a (the one that is seen above the pool). The passage surplombi?ei is protected by three pitons. The first piton with ring, looks healthy, but the other two, a ius followed by a "U" in the lip surplombi?ei, moves. After surplombi?a, find a python healthy and start a traverseu short right up in the pool. Traverseul has two insurance: a python beaten after a plate extremely unstable (!!!) and a spreader. Regroup convenient after traverseu.

LC 3: Starts up a face compact (two expansion bolts), and traverses left under an archway without insurance. Under the archway can be mounted insurance mobile: frienduri/hexuri (equivalent to BD C4 #2, #3), maybe some nuts average. After the arcade, we start a traverseu right on a wider one, that of grass, until a rift grassy. Traverseul, as well as the front of the left crack, I get into a series of alveoli tricamuri/frienduri (equivalent Totem Cam #0.65, #1.25, #1.5). Climbing in this portion is easy, but without insurance (traverseul is unprotected, and on crack we have a python what does not inspire confidence). The crack immediately gives in the pool, on a wider one, that chest of drawers, under the eaves of the cliff to the two expansion bolts apart.
LC 4: go first to the right, then up the face a little to the left diedrului (where is easier - about 3-4m on the left). Although we see the pitons in the dihedral, we will continue up the face (without insurance), the dihedron being grassy and brittle. In the moment when we give of a python on the front (a peu very solid), we'll start traverseul the right to the dihedral, where we will ensure the last piton in it. We continue up on a ramp and we'll regroup, slightly uncomfortable, on a small ?ancule? (an anchor mechanical, and two cams).

LC 5: Go 2m to the left, make sure a spit, then up the face flushed, with a few alveoli. Continue up 3m, traverse left 3-4m by a dihedral provided to move the cams of old, some trust. The two-flat turns at the end, in a fissure at a time in a bavarian very beautiful. Regroup on a platform, green roof. With 5-6 loops, up here they use approx 12, we can continue up the length of the 6.

LC 6: it Is short and browse through a fisurica crumbly, powdery and a little grassy, which after a few meters gets below a beetle big where it crosses over to the right. Regroup at the 2 expansion bolts. Up on the ridge, we got 3-4m of climbing very easy, to the right.
Information source
Silvia Murgescu - http://www.silvique.ro/2012/08/2012-08-04-costila-traseul-poseidon-5a-6lc.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 48.6" E 25° 29' 52.9"    
Access route: Access: identical to that of the route the Baby and Mircea. From the thread side of the Valley Co?tilei at about 2100m altitude it traverses right on a wider one, that clear. Beginning brânei is flagged on the thread side by the red arrows. I recommend securing the cord during the passage of the brânei because in the middle is crumbly. Traverseul is ensured by the 2 pitons.
Retreat route: 

Booster on the line of the route, of two in two pools, with strings of 50m, then follow the girdle of the access to the Valley Co?tilei. Attention to the first booster! The strings can get stuck in the cushions of grass under the belay station 6.
On the Crest of the Co?tila-Galbinele up in the Girdle of the High Co?tilei, and from there we can descend the Crest of the Valley White - Girdle of the Air, or on the Valley Scoru?ilor - Valley of Marigolds up to the Refuge Co?tila.


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Diaries & links



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Users who climbed the route


Constantinescu Anita - 25.08.2019
- 25.08.2019doar 2 lungimi ca ne-a prins ploaia
Vasile Dumitrică - 04.08.2018
- 04.08.2018Prima lungime are 40m și nu 30, cum e specificat pe schița traseului
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980

Users who wish to climb the route


Chereches Cristian

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Ioana Acsinia - 30.08.2015

Video - Silvia Murgescu - 04.08.2012

Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 48.6" E 25° 29' 52.9"    
Access route: Access: identical to that of the route the Baby and Mircea. From the thread side of the Valley Co?tilei at about 2100m altitude it traverses right on a wider one, that clear. Beginning brânei is flagged on the thread side by the red arrows. I recommend securing the cord during the passage of the brânei because in the middle is crumbly. Traverseul is ensured by the 2 pitons.
Retreat route: 

Booster on the line of the route, of two in two pools, with strings of 50m, then follow the girdle of the access to the Valley Co?tilei. Attention to the first booster! The strings can get stuck in the cushions of grass under the belay station 6.
On the Crest of the Co?tila-Galbinele up in the Girdle of the High Co?tilei, and from there we can descend the Crest of the Valley White - Girdle of the Air, or on the Valley Scoru?ilor - Valley of Marigolds up to the Refuge Co?tila.

Equipment


Rope: 50m
Quickdraws: 14-15
Cams and nuts: 14-15
Additional equipment: 14-15
Poseidon

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