Csipkés (Dantelat) (Csipkés (Lacy)) 5A
5,00/5 (1 vote)




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  • Description
  • Pictures (2)
  • Diaries/Climbs (18)
  • Video (3)
  • Map
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 31.10.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 06.06.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7+/8-
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă poză: Mihai Dăiţoiu 
Length: 5 pitches
Height: 130 m
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsSlabVerticalFace climbingRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: György Kovács, Miklós Gyöngyösi
Date: 1959


Route description

Pitch 1 (35m, 7-) - Goes on a slab, with some grass at its base. Climb about 8 meters, then go diagonally to the left, continue on a slab face, slightly to the left, then upwards. Climbing on crimps and pockets. Belay station on a small ledge.

Pitch 2 (30m, 7+/A1) - Goes slightly to the left, upwards, then slightly to the right (towards a small arch). Continue diagonally to the left, on a face with few holds. After 4 meters we enter the crux, 7 . After passing it we climb upwards, then slightly to the right towards the belay station, which is not very comfortable.

Pitch 3 (25m, 6+) - Goes slightly to the left, then upwards, then slightly to the right. We climb diagonally to the left, towards the belay station, on a grassy ledge, near a tree, at a base of a dihedral.

Pitch 4 (30m, 6+) - It follows to the right a dihedral, then traverse to the right on a slab, then climb towards an overhang/small roof. The small roof is easy, but we must be careful at the unstable rocks. We continue on a dihedral/crack about 15 meters, then traverse slightly to the right, where we find the belay station, on a ledge.

Pitch 5 (30m, 6+) - Goes to the left on a vertical crack about 6-7 meters, then ascending to the right, having some face climbing, then climb a chimney. We exit on some grassy section, and after 10 meters we find the belay station on a big grassy ledge. The belay station is on the left side of the wall, on 2 bolts.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2013/05/csipkes-5a-5lc7-6ao-cheile-turzii_5.html
Poză - Mihai Dăiţoiu - http://via-aventura.blogspot.ro/
Poză 2 - Peretele Cald - https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1857738261151045&set=a.1411851379073071.1073741830.100007446666868&type=3&theater

Access and retreat

Access route: We climb to the end of Crestei Sanşil route, through a gully with scree to the left of the route.
On the gully which separates
Colţul Crăpat from Creasta Sanşil, about 20 meters under the ridge we can see a small trail, which we follow to the base of Colţului Crăpat. Somewhere at the base of the wall we can see the name of the route (faded after years). Be careful, to the right of the route, there is another unfinished line, and to the left of Csipkes, there is another line with bolts, Călătorie Psihedelică.
Retreat route: We climb to the right of the belay station, having some easy grassy climbing, until we reach the summit of Colţului Crăpat, where we continue descending on the ridge. 8 meters from the summit we see the belay station for abseiling (2 bolts). The abseils are on the other side of the route we just climbed. From here we make a 55 meter abseil, or 2 shorter abseils. Then we down-climb on the gully, but after 5-10 minutes we continue on the small trail (the gully continues, but we leave it). We traverse a scree, follow the trail on a well defined path, until we arrive at a scree with big boulders. We down-climb it to the right, towards a small trail, which leads us to the base of the Gorge.

Topo

Topo

Csipkés (Dantelat)

Pictures


Sursă poză: Mihai Dăiţoiu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Sursă poză: Mihai Dăiţoiu

User who climbed the route


Chereches Cristian - 23.06.2018, Vara
Bercean Ioan - 23.06.2018, Vara
Andrei Holban - 03.06.2017, Vara
Ad Rian - 03.06.2017, Vara
Bianca Bilt - 09.04.2017, Vara
Andrei Holban - 10.04.2015
LauraB - 10.04.2015
Cristian Popescu - 05.05.2013, Vara
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Páll Endre - 14.08.2010

Video - Silvia Murgescu - 07.06.2010

Video - TVRCluj - 01.02.2004

Map



GPS: N 4,65645001245331E+16°0.0' E 2,36748552068634E+16°0.0'    
Access route: We climb to the end of Crestei Sanşil route, through a gully with scree to the left of the route.
On the gully which separates
Colţul Crăpat from Creasta Sanşil, about 20 meters under the ridge we can see a small trail, which we follow to the base of Colţului Crăpat. Somewhere at the base of the wall we can see the name of the route (faded after years). Be careful, to the right of the route, there is another unfinished line, and to the left of Csipkes, there is another line with bolts, Călătorie Psihedelică.
Retreat route: We climb to the right of the belay station, having some easy grassy climbing, until we reach the summit of Colţului Crăpat, where we continue descending on the ridge. 8 meters from the summit we see the belay station for abseiling (2 bolts). The abseils are on the other side of the route we just climbed. From here we make a 55 meter abseil, or 2 shorter abseils. Then we down-climb on the gully, but after 5-10 minutes we continue on the small trail (the gully continues, but we leave it). We traverse a scree, follow the trail on a well defined path, until we arrive at a scree with big boulders. We down-climb it to the right, towards a small trail, which leads us to the base of the Gorge.

Equipment


Sursă poză: Mihai Dăiţoiu

Comments