Today we celebrate 50 years since Traseul celor Patru Surplombe (Traseul Victor Măciucă) (Peretele Bătrâna) first ascent

Traversarea Peretelui Coştilei 3A
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 29.07.2016

General characteristics


Classic grade: 3A
Type: Classic route

 Traversarea Peretelui Coştilei 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Altitude: 2000 m
Height: 100 m
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsTraverseNot recommendedPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Lubenescu, Walter Kargel
Date: 10.09.1955


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate


The route crosses successively the three large girdles that criss-cross in diagonal Wall Co?tilei. Passing from one belt to another is carried out by climbing the string dual of two portions vertical every 20m. Otherwise, the course is elementary.

Climb starts from the point located about 100m upstream from the entrance on the Central Route (Andrei Ghitescu) of the Wall Co?tilei and ends in the Ridge Co?tila-Marigold. The first portion follows, from the thread Vâlcelului Under the Wall, Girdle Bottom, which measures about 130 km. Differ on the way a passage covered with juniper trees, located in the central area of the bum, after which the crossing continues, about 50 m, on a portion common with the Central Route. From the point at which the girdle is interrupted, the climb follows a chimney vertical of about 15 km, up to the height of the Waist of the Middle of the wall (the portion above it escalates to chord double). Crossing to the right a passage easy, escort over a distance of about 100 m Belt from the Middle, up to the point where it ends.
From here, climbing up a sloping front, we go out after about 15 km, in the 3rd belt of the wall (Middle Top), the length of which does not exceed 80 m. This last portion, covered with the juniper trees on the whole surface, over the Ridge Co?tila-Marigold, namely, on the portion of the 5th L. C. this latter route.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 1 - Emilian Cristea, 1961
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, Bel Alpin, Bucureşti, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 48.6" E 25° 29' 52.9"    
Access route: Up The Valley Co?tilei. The route begins from the point located about 100m upstream from the entrance on the Central Route (Andrei Ghitescu) of the Wall Co?tilei.

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Traversarea Peretelui Coştilei

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Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 48.6" E 25° 29' 52.9"    
Access route: Up The Valley Co?tilei. The route begins from the point located about 100m upstream from the entrance on the Central Route (Andrei Ghitescu) of the Wall Co?tilei.

Equipment


Traversarea Peretelui Coştilei

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