On 13.04.1913 Nicolae Tipei was born.

Andrei Ghiţescu 5A, 6a+ (5c, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 5c
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6a+
Type: Classic route

 Andrei Ghiţescu 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 7 pitches
Altitude: 1950 m
Height: 250 m
Climb duration: 4 - 5 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsCrackLoose rocks

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Lubenescu, Walter Kargel
Date: 12.09.1955
Repaired date: 01.09.2018
First winter ascent: Emil Coliban
Date: 1972


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The first three lengths of rope were depitonate at first, but are easy and it can assure you with mobile very well. The following lengths are very well insured.



If we want to skip these lengths, we can enter the trail on the girdle where to start Baby and Mircea and Poseidon. Thus, from boulder, we'll tie in the chord and we'll go through 40m on the grass, having on the way 2 pitons. It is recommended not to put them, so you won't slip on the grass. Regroup in Scorpio, convenient, a wider one, that of grass, at the mid-length 6



LC 4: Going up, on a fisurica, with a python and a spit, then a few yards of friable and go out on the girdle where they are belay station in Scorpio (2 expansion bolts with chain in the case in which we use ropes of 50m, it is appropriate to regroup here, otherwise continue). We will continue on fisurica oriented to the left (based on 2 pitons; attention, there's a vertical crack, leaving everything up to the 2 pitons, and which is very grassy - not on there is the route) approx 10m, up to an area of crumbly, here we do a small traverseu the right, towards a second fisurica, harder than the first, where we have a spit at the departure on this. Climbing extaoradinara flies to the left of the crack (the Crack is kinda closed, it provides power outlets). Regroup at the end of it on a girdle of the great stone to 2 expansion bolts. 55m, grade 6/6+.



LC 5: Cross 3 m to the left, climbing up a small threshold and get on all fours on a wider one, that of grass. Continue up the fine crack pitonata, which represents the and step free of the route. The crack is approx 6m, then do a little traverseu right and continue on a new crack diedrica, lighter, and more crumbly. Then comes a small face, then get back on the field firabil. It's recommended to do a traverseu of 4-5m to the right, because then we can climb upward left, thus avoiding a part of the brittle. Continue on to a new fisurica oriented to the left, quite crumbly, and get out in 5 m in the pool, 2 expansion bolts, a wider one, that of grass. 45m, grade 7-


LC 6: we Climb up, we can put a nut at 2m to go after a large plate. Still 2 feet in the air, then we have a traverseu right on a brâni?a of the earth to a python silver. Desca?aram half a meter, continue right to a spit, at the base of a small dihedral. Go on it, then do it right and get on the ground easy but brittle. Continue up another 10-12m, by bringing together a wider one, that the great stone, in a concavity of the wall. Regrouping at the 2 pitons extremely solid; 2m to the right there is a spit with the link for the booster. 35m, degree 5+/6-


LC 7: Go to the right (we can provide and spitul booster) a wider one, that broad stone. Our target is the crack vertical on the right, very well pitonata, we get a kind of valley. Continue on it (or on the ridge to its right), then turn slightly left. Regroup at a spit with the link that is located 5m to the left of the sea of juniper trees. 50m, grade 6/6+
Information source
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, Bel Alpin, Bucureşti, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 48.6" E 25° 29' 52.9"    
Access route: Urcampe Valley Co?tilei. Through the Chimney in the Wall of the Co?tilei and about 30 m upstream vedemun valley slant that goes up diagonally to the left in the wall. If we want to skip the first 3 lengths depitonate, we can start on the girdle of the from where you start and the route to Poseidon.
Retreat route: We can rapela over the route (but there is a danger to the first 2 boosts to dizlocam large stones when we pull the strings), we can rapela over Poseidon or we can climb up in the Girdle Mareal Co?tilei, where we return to the Refuge Co?tila the Valley Scoru?ilor – Valley of the Marigolds or on the Girdle of the Airline.

Topo

Topo

Andrei Ghiţescu

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Andrei Ghiţescu

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Users who climbed the route


Jabon - 28.09.2018
- 28.09.2018
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980

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Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 48.6" E 25° 29' 52.9"    
Access route: Urcampe Valley Co?tilei. Through the Chimney in the Wall of the Co?tilei and about 30 m upstream vedemun valley slant that goes up diagonally to the left in the wall. If we want to skip the first 3 lengths depitonate, we can start on the girdle of the from where you start and the route to Poseidon.
Retreat route: We can rapela over the route (but there is a danger to the first 2 boosts to dizlocam large stones when we pull the strings), we can rapela over Poseidon or we can climb up in the Girdle Mareal Co?tilei, where we return to the Refuge Co?tila the Valley Scoru?ilor – Valley of the Marigolds or on the Girdle of the Airline.

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Andrei Ghiţescu

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