47 yeas ago, Misi Szalma was leaving us.

Fisura în Y 5A, 6a+ (5c, A1)
3,00/5 (3 votes)




2779 page views


  • Description
  • Pictures (4)
  • Diaries/Climbs (1)
  • Video (1)
  • Map
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 22.10.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 5c
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 6a+
Type: Classic route

 Sursă foto şi desen: Rupi 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 7 pitches
Altitude: 2050 m
Height: 200 m
Climb duration: 5 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsDihedralCrackTreesGrassLoose rocks

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Andrei Beleaua, Cristian Andreescu
Date: 1984
Repaired date: 09.08.2018


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate


The route features sections of the climb, beautiful, separate collection of waste with a portion of a pot or low, go to work, being the longest. The route has been fixed with anchor mechanical in the pool, and isolated, the lengths of the 1st and the 6th.

The trail starts to the left of the jnepenii of the Co?tila-Marigold, on top of a beetle is impressive, on top of a slope of grass and scree.

LK 1: Climb up the left surplombei (the starting pin bent out of the sheet metal into a crack in the right side of the small faces down under the beetle), to the crack on the left (where you'll find a second anchor). Keep to the left on the grass where you can place a number of small, before you start the climb up to the dihedral, facing slightly to the right. Here we have the 2 hands, the first one is very solid. Out of the dihedral, continue on to a second dihedral little one facing left and when it's over we go, over the face of the cliff, where we will have 3 cams are good. Keep it up, keeping in the right-hand side, where it meets the rock friable (with the possibility of putting a couple of frienduri) of a hospital. We arrive at a small cave, desca?aram a little bit for a pin bent on the left side. There we see the belay station of the brâna, 2 expansion bolts. 55m, level 6, in the first dihedral, the 6th, at the passage of the face.

LC 2: At the top we continue on the ground, easy rapids of the rock and the grass (we can provide a stone fixed in a fissure of the right hand). After about 15 yards we're under a ceiling, to a wider one, that of the horizontal pointing to the left of the top of the juniper (see on top of our what you can do is make sure a loop is the longer). For the next approximately 12 m go through the girdle, and reform 2-expansion bolts. 25, grade-3.

LK 3: Climb up diagonally left on doorsteps by the rock and weed to crack with your hands, get up on it for a second crack to a dihedral with a more and more hands. The output of the rock it is moving over the speed of the grass and the ground, a few feet up in the air at the start (so that they can provide you with a number average or a nut high in the crack), and then slightly to the right, up onto a little platform where you can regroup in the 2nd expansion bolts. 40 class-6 - in dihedral.

LK 4: Move the two-flat grass above the pool, in the sprai?uri with 2 hands. Continue to the right, rising to a brâni?a of the ground (the one on the left is a cam in the crack is narrow next to the crack wide, ensure that it is not possible to take it to the friction of the string). It's up to the end of the brâni?e, and then continue on to a face-to fly, with beautiful passages and rock solid. At the end of the face, we've got the final pin length. The output is done by keeping us in the juniper trees, crossing a wider one, that of the ascending of the traverse of the wall. Grouped on the right, 2 expansion bolts. 25-grade 6 - in the passage of the diedrului.

LK 5: Follow the crack (it can be the assurance of a anou to an hourglass of sand), and then another 3-4 in the clean up in the grouping is a little brâna every 2-expansion bolts. 18-meter-long, grade-5 is at the top of the rift. Can we just merge this with the length of the previous one, but the strings will rub against it pretty hard, (and) because of the jnepenilor.

LK 6: this Is the most difficult, the climbing is sustained all the way through. Past it is a small beetle of the front on the clean good. The exit ramp from the top is pretty delicate, the housings of the loose tiles (there we have the first ever). Continue on to the ramp ascending to the left (on the 2 cams, the second one was a black chip, it is the department of the progression, it is used with care, and we can put you on the right side for a friend who is in a alveoala half-moon) to get to a vertical portion of about 2.5 m, but continued as a rift overhangnta. Here we have the second braid, and then follow the lead and the rings on crack overhangnta. We go off the cliff and regrouped in a brâni?a 2 expansion bolts. 28 to 30, the degree required a 6 at the exit of the ramp, the degree of rotpunkt 7th.

LK 7: up and to the right, we have an anchor of the solid, and then cross diagonally left towards the old pool at the base of a small arcade in the shape of a half moon, where you have 2 hands (the one on the bottom moves, only to be beaten into the ground). In the top 5 on the rift wider, until we reach the pines. It follows a very hard time with the jnepenii, which is sometimes surplombeaza. Continue on easy terrain, the level of 2 (where to find what). We get a great platform where you can regroup on a large root of the juniper, with a belt of white on it, and at the end of the Ridge Co?tila-Marigold. 35m, grade 6 to the passage of the jnepenilor.
Continue on the ridge to the Girdle of the High Co?tilei find it pretty quick for a single cam ring.
Information source
Topo - Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, Bel Alpin, Bucureşti, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 48.6" E 25° 29' 52.9"    
Access route: 
The entrance to the trail is on brâna at the exit of the Balcony, where you can get over to one of the Balconies, the Trickster, the facility, Caesar Vargulescu.

Another option is to hike up to the Crest of the Co?tila-Marigold up in the pines, in about 3.5 hours from the Busteni train station (actually only the first leg of the original route, so as to open the Baticu).
Retreat route: We can't go down or up on the Ridge of the Valley, White Girdle of the Overhead (about 3 hours per light, up to the station Log), or in the Valley of the Scoru?ilor - The Marigolds (with the Chimney of the fire which relieves us of boosting the saritorile of the Valley Marigold) up to the Refuge of the Co?tila.

Topo

Topo

Fisura în Y

Pictures


Sursă foto şi desen: Rupi

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursă foto şi desen: Rupi

Users who wish to climb the route


Stefan
Adrian Scurtu

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Adelin Udeanu - 15.10.2017

Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 48.6" E 25° 29' 52.9"    
Access route: 
The entrance to the trail is on brâna at the exit of the Balcony, where you can get over to one of the Balconies, the Trickster, the facility, Caesar Vargulescu.

Another option is to hike up to the Crest of the Co?tila-Marigold up in the pines, in about 3.5 hours from the Busteni train station (actually only the first leg of the original route, so as to open the Baticu).
Retreat route: We can't go down or up on the Ridge of the Valley, White Girdle of the Overhead (about 3 hours per light, up to the station Log), or in the Valley of the Scoru?ilor - The Marigolds (with the Chimney of the fire which relieves us of boosting the saritorile of the Valley Marigold) up to the Refuge of the Co?tila.

Equipment


Sursă foto şi desen: Rupi

Comments