Muchia din Peretele Coştilei 4A, 6a (3c/3c+, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 21.03.2019

General characteristics

Classic grade: 4A
Mandatory grade: 3c/3c+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 6a
Type: Classic route

 Muchia din Peretele Coştilei 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 7 pitches
Altitude: 1900 m
Height: 200 m
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
Best months:


PitonsCams/NutsPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Paul Fozocoş, Ion Ionescu
Date: 30.07.1954

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

the Trail follows the edge of the front face, interrupted by small platforms covered with vegetation.

The first L. C. follows first a crack open and vertical, along which are fixed a few pitons, after which the climb continues through the interior of a chimney that takes the end on a belt, which heats up a great distance on the south side of the wall.

The girdle followed to the right, leads to the base of a crack, where we regroup after the 2nd L. C.
During the 3-to L. C. we are committed to starting on a vertical crack, a climb up to the point where they lose on the face of the tiles whose passage, extremely difficult, requires a very careful check of the intakes. Regroup on a rocky platform.
Execute a crossing to the right, along a threshold, after which keep climbing on the vertical wall, using a few pitons. This L. C. (4) take the end under a cornice of appreciable size, where we can regroup.On the conduct of the 5th L. C. execute first a booster directed. This maneuver leads us on a wider one, that grassy and then at the base of a crack on a climb, reaching above the cornice encountered during the 4-L. C., where we regroup.

Following the line of greatest slope of the wall, the penultimate L. C. (6) is conducted through a crack with the rock crumbly, to the point that gives us the possibility of a crossing to the right.

In the course of the last L. C. (7) the route shows a crack that goes slightly diagonally to the left, after which a passage of the vertical leads, after a traverse to the right, on a girdle wide, covered with juniper trees. It ends in the Ridge Co?tila-Galbinele, on the portion of the 5th L. C., of the ridge, which followed to the V drive in the Girdle of Co?tilei.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 1 - N. Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea, 1961
Trasee alpine in Carpati - W. Kargel, 1976
Drumuri spre culmi - W. Kargel, 1987
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - W. Kargel, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 48.6" E 25° 29' 52.9"    



Sursa: W. Kargel 1987


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GPS: N 45° 25' 48.6" E 25° 29' 52.9"    


Muchia din Peretele Coştilei