Today we celebrate 61 years since Umărul Padinei Popii (Turnul Mare al Dianei) first ascent

Hornul din Peretele Coştilei 2B, 4c/4c+
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 03.05.2019

General characteristics

Classic grade: 2B
Mandatory grade: 4c/4c+
Rotpunkt grade: 4c/4c+
Type: Classic route

 Sursa foto: Rupi (2019) 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 5 pitches
Altitude: 1900 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 2 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
Best months:



First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Niculae Baticu, Gheorghe Creangă, Giulio Goretti, Madeleine Knapp, Dan Popescu
Date: 23.07.1939

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1: It climbs from the Valley Co?tilei on some faces friable and less delicate (II degree) for entry into the chimney. The first piton is exactly where you start the chimney, I mean from ~40 km of the valley line. On the next 15 I'm an hourglass and 1-2 pitons.

LC 2: They then arrive at the base of a chimney with the rock embedded above. It can go out on the front left where there are 2 pitons, then up and slightly right oblique toward the boulder recessed. It can pass directly over the boulder (without any insurance) or ensure the rings of the chimney from under the boulder and through the exit of the chimney. Overcoming this boulder is the most difficult part of the route. Possible to be able to directly address this chimney (?), but we haven't tried this variant.

LC 3: the Next ~40 km are on easy terrain, sometimes with unstable stones and drive to the base of the next chimney.

LC 4: Chimney goes straight, has many assurances, it is easy (grade III) and very nice. After the chimney next ~20 m of the trail through an area light, but crumbly after that it comes out in the juniper trees. The trail comes out at the end of the first full lengths from Ridge Co?tila-Marigold.

Information source -
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, Bel Alpin, București, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    



Hornul din Peretele Coştilei


Sursa foto: Rupi (2019)

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it

Diaries & links

Sursa foto: Rupi (2019)

Users who climbed the route

Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    


Sursa foto: Rupi (2019)