Cezar Vărgulescu 5A, 6c/6c+ (6a/6a+, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 11.12.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 6a/6a+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6c/6c+
Type: Classic route

 Cezar Vărgulescu 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 3 pitches
Altitude: 1900 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCrackFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Liviu Balea, A. Dogaru
Date: 1986
Repaired: Cornel Sain
Date: 2001


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LK 1: Start with a tear to the oblique left-surplombeaza at the beginning. It continues on to the crack until it ends, on a vertical face, on top of which is the use of a different crack by the pool (on the harness).
LK 2: a crack in the top, then traverse left across a face to a vertical crack, climb it and then traverse right by the pool, on one side in the harness at the base of the arches.
LK 3: Go up the arch, crosses over to the left, down and to the left it goes straight. It's coming out on the grass, and it brings together a wider one, that the broad (common with the output of the Balconies).
The route is safe (fixed in 2001, with the two expansion bolts in the pool, and the expansion bolts on the route).
Information source
fralpinism - http://www.fralpinism.ro/?cat=142
http://alpinet.org/main/liste/index_ro_id_1422.html
Silvia Iordache - http://silvia-iordache.blogspot.ro/2007/09/tr-cezar-vargulescu-5a.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: It ascends the Valley of the Co?tilei to the right of the Chimney (from the Wall of the Co?tilei), and then climb up and face down, and exposed, till the girdle of the common routes, the Trickster, and the facility.
Retreat route: The two boosters on the line of the route of Caesar Vargulescu up to the Co?tilei (with half ropes to 60m).

Topo

Topo

Cezar Vărgulescu

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Cezar Vărgulescu

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Cezar Vărgulescu

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Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: It ascends the Valley of the Co?tilei to the right of the Chimney (from the Wall of the Co?tilei), and then climb up and face down, and exposed, till the girdle of the common routes, the Trickster, and the facility.
Retreat route: The two boosters on the line of the route of Caesar Vargulescu up to the Co?tilei (with half ropes to 60m).

Equipment


Cezar Vărgulescu

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