Today we celebrate 65 years since Fisura Verde (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent.  Today we celebrate 9 years since Mizantrotheosis (Ţancul Mic) first ascent.  Today we celebrate 80 years since Fisura Scoruşilor (Umărul Gălbenelelor) first ascent.  

Galiani (Galiani) 5B
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  • Description
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  • Diaries/Climbs (7)
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  • Map
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Vasile Dumitrică la data de 29.07.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6+/7-
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7+
Quickdraws: 10-12
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Vasile Dumitrică 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 4 pitches
Altitude: 1900 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 4 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsVerticalOverhangFace climbingTraverseFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Vlad Popa, Justin Ionescu
Date: 2000
First winter ascent: Ioni Mânzatu, Mihnea Rădulescu
Date: 07.03.2003


Route description


The route was opened in memory of Romanian alpinist Mihai Cioroianu who died on K2 in 1999.




Required mobile protection: one set of cams (equivalent in size to #.4-#3 BD Camalots)


1st pitch - 30 m, VI

Fixed pro: lots of old pitons

Follow the piton line on a grassy dihedral with crumbly rock towards a roofed, left leaning crack, that leads us towards a left leaning seam that will take us to the first belay station (two bolts)


2nd pitch - ~25 m, VII-/VII

Fixed pro: one bolt and 3 pitons

Follow the left leaning dihedral/crack (#1-#3 BD Camalots) towards an overhang protected by a bolt. Climb left of the bolt and slightly left on the face above (clipping two close pitons and a third one higher up) towards a crack. Follow the crack for a few meters and traverse left over crumbly rock to the belay station in a niche (two bolts)


3rd pitch - 40 m, VII

Fixed pro: 5-6 bolts și one piton

Traverse back to the right towards a blue bolt. Then straight up towards the two bolts above. After clipping the second bolt the first crux of the pitch follows - an up and to the right traverse towards a red bolt (7-8 meters away). Continue up on the face, clipping one bolt fom the „Șmecher” route, towards a slightly overhanging crack (the second crux). After this, the route continues up on the face until the belay station (the old belay of the „Balcoane” route? -  three pitons).


4th pitch - 40 m, VI

Fixed pro: one bolt and one piton

Follow the left arching crack above the last pitch of the "Balcoane" route, then on a rocky ledge past a larch and to the belay/abseil station.

Information source
Schiţă - Vlad Popa
Text - Vasile Dumitrică (2019)


Access and retreat

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: Climb Coștila Valley until the Coștila Wall Chimney and spot the white writing on the wall left of the chimney.
Access duration: 45 min
Retreat route: 
  1. Two abseils along the Cezar Vărgulescu route (60m ropes).
  2. One long, 60m, abseil until the Coștila Wall Chimney at a bolt with a pear ring and another 40m abseil down to the valley.

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Vasile Dumitrică

Pictures


Sursă: Vasile Dumitrică

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Sursă: Vasile Dumitrică

User who climbed the route


Vasile Dumitrică - 07.07.2019, Vara
Vasile Dumitrică - 18.08.2018, Vara
Vasile Dumitrică - 14.07.2016, Vara

Users who wish to climb the route


Chereches Cristian

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: Climb Coștila Valley until the Coștila Wall Chimney and spot the white writing on the wall left of the chimney.
Retreat route: 
  1. Two abseils along the Cezar Vărgulescu route (60m ropes).
  2. One long, 60m, abseil until the Coștila Wall Chimney at a bolt with a pear ring and another 40m abseil down to the valley.

Equipment


Rope: Two 60m (ropes if abseiling down the wall)
Quickdraws: 10-12
Cams and nuts: A set of cams (equivalent sizes to #.4-#3 BD Camalot)
Additional equipment: Maybe some nuts and/or tricams
Sursă: Vasile Dumitrică

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