Route description
The route was opened in memory of Romanian alpinist Mihai Cioroianu who died on K2 in 1999.
Required mobile protection: one set of cams (equivalent in size to #.4-#3 BD Camalots)
1st pitch - 30 m, VI Fixed pro: lots of old pitons
Follow the piton line on a grassy dihedral with crumbly rock towards a roofed, left leaning crack, that leads us towards a left leaning seam that will take us to the first belay station (two bolts)
2nd pitch - ~25 m, VII-/VII Fixed pro: one bolt and 3 pitons Follow the left leaning dihedral/crack (#1-#3 BD Camalots) towards an overhang protected by a bolt. Climb left of the bolt and slightly left on the face above (clipping two close pitons and a third one higher up) towards a crack. Follow the crack for a few meters and traverse left over crumbly rock to the belay station in a niche (two bolts)
3rd pitch - 40 m, VII Fixed pro: 5-6 bolts și one piton
Traverse back to the right towards a blue bolt. Then straight up towards the two bolts above. After clipping the second bolt the first crux of the pitch follows - an up and to the right traverse towards a red bolt (7-8 meters away). Continue up on the face, clipping one bolt fom the „Șmecher” route, towards a slightly overhanging crack (the second crux). After this, the route continues up on the face until the belay station (the old belay of the „Balcoane” route? - three pitons).
4th pitch - 40 m, VI Fixed pro: one bolt and one piton Follow the left arching crack above the last pitch of the "Balcoane" route, then on a rocky ledge past a larch and to the belay/abseil station. Information source Schiţă - Vlad Popa
Text - Vasile Dumitrică (2019)
|