Şmecher 5B, 6b (6a/6a+, A0)
5,00/5 (4 votes)




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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 12.07.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6a/6a+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6b
Type: Classic route

 Şmecher 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 4 pitches
Altitude: 1900 m
Height: 120 m
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Florescu
Repaired: Vlad Popa, Justin Ionescu, Cornel Sain


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route claimed, and the board, climbing to the beautiful, the assurance of the solid and the free, required (6+/7-).
It can be climbed in two different lengths with a string of 60m, and the care of the insurance company.


LK 1: Go to the bottom of a cave/arch to the right of it (make of a hospital), having been afraid to go out on the front. We'll see, next to the upward-left, but I've got a ball python very solid, hidden, somewhere in the ascendant right wing in some of the clumps of grass. So, we continue on toward the upward right side and then to the left. There's another hospital close to you, then we have a little pot belly (the socket wrench is the one on the left), where we are, and up the path. Once you're out of step we, a hospital, and then to top up the pool. 20, level 7


LC 2: At the top the dihedral (the one on the right is the more brittle, the potential of the stones dislodged, falling directly on the second), with the insurance, hospital, department, hospital. After you make sure the second-to-wall bouncing, which makes the task easier. Continue all the way up to a brâni?a of the rock. Crossing, therefore to the left side, about 6 to 8, get a delicious pie series. Here, at the top, a very nice and compact. We're in the pool, slightly uncomfortable. 25 degree 6+/7-.


LC 3: At the top of the 3-4 m, then the traverseu the left, the new cookie series, setting up a spit with rope, blue. Keep it up (the orientation slightly to the right) on the sides, and the fisurele until you get to a face compact, which crosses the ascendant, the left (this trail intersects with the facility, the facility climb up the trail to the left). Continue on with (be bounded at the bottom by a brâni?a of the grass upward to the left) 10 meters up in the pool. 30 degree 6+/7-


LC-4: up to 3-4m up in some of the tiles of the floors, and then traverseu the left, 6 to 8 (expansion bolts very close) to a dihedral. Get 5-6m on it, and then go over the left side of 2-3m. Keep it up the field quickly but is brittle so the grouping which is common to all of the 4 tracks on this side of the wall. The length provided is very good, somehow in contrast with the rest of the wavelengths, which are more airy. 30 grade 7-
Information source
fralpinism.ro - http://www.fralpinism.ro/?cat=142

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: It ascends the Valley of the Co?tilei to the right of the Chimney (from the Wall of the Co?tilei), and then climb up the face down and hung (we can provide this part, and there are 2-3 hands) up to the girdle of the common routes the Sly and Caesar Vargulescu.
Retreat route: The two boosters on the line of the route of Caesar Vargulescu up to the Co?tilei (with half ropes of 60m):



the spitul Petzl stainless steel, to chain link, as the bottom ~40 m, up to the first pool to the route of Caesar Vargulescu (the two expansion bolts Petzl stainless steel links, which are shortcuts); warning, the grouping is located a few metres right of the line of the booster
from here, abseil 60m to the Valley Co?tileiAlternativ, with a great deal of attention at the end of the wires that go to the dot, you can make a return of 60m up in the Flue out of the Wall of the Co?tilei (in a hospital with a maillon), followed by another rappel (~40 m up to the bottom of the Valley Co?tila) on the brâni?e of grass, stone and dirt

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Users who climbed the route


Vasile Dumitrică - 11.07.2020
- 11.07.2020* înlocuit pitonul de la fialul lungimii a doua, smuls de Cristina acum două săptămâni, cu un Peu IUS donat de Nicu Badea. * testat/rebătut restul pitoanelor din traseu (pitonul de pe lungimea 0 nu mi-a părut solid) * dărâmat două mari plăci friabile din lungimea 3 * adăugat o verigă rapidă în a doua ancoră din prima regrupare a traseului Cezar Vărgulescu.
Vasile Dumitrică - 28.06.2020
- 28.06.2020Penultima asigurare din lungimea doi, un piton, a ieşit la o cădere a Cristinei.
Jabon - 15.09.2018, Vara
- 15.09.2018
Jabon - 15.08.2018
- 15.08.2018
Vasile Dumitrică - 30.06.2018, Vara
- 30.06.2018
Vasile Dumitrică - 14.07.2016, Vara
- 14.07.2016

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Chereches Cristian

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Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: It ascends the Valley of the Co?tilei to the right of the Chimney (from the Wall of the Co?tilei), and then climb up the face down and hung (we can provide this part, and there are 2-3 hands) up to the girdle of the common routes the Sly and Caesar Vargulescu.
Retreat route: The two boosters on the line of the route of Caesar Vargulescu up to the Co?tilei (with half ropes of 60m):



the spitul Petzl stainless steel, to chain link, as the bottom ~40 m, up to the first pool to the route of Caesar Vargulescu (the two expansion bolts Petzl stainless steel links, which are shortcuts); warning, the grouping is located a few metres right of the line of the booster
from here, abseil 60m to the Valley Co?tileiAlternativ, with a great deal of attention at the end of the wires that go to the dot, you can make a return of 60m up in the Flue out of the Wall of the Co?tilei (in a hospital with a maillon), followed by another rappel (~40 m up to the bottom of the Valley Co?tila) on the brâni?e of grass, stone and dirt

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