Traseul Balcoanelor 5A, 6b (6a, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 26.08.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 6a
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6b
Type: Classic route

 Traseul Balcoanelor, Sursă: Ciri Turcanu 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Length: 4 pitches
Altitude: 1900 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCrackRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Florin Stan, Nicolae Călin
Date: 1957
Repaired: Cornel Sain, Dănuţ Ocheşel
Date: 2011
First winter ascent: Nicolae Jitaru, Mircea Opriş
Date: 1962


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1 - Of the place where it is written the name of the route go over a little tummy, after which cross the right on a wider one, that until the first insurance, a spit. From here we continue ascending over a portion easy crumbly prinzînd a vertical crack that leads to the ceiling. A few meters under the ceiling crack becomes horizontal. Cross this to the left, about 3 km then continue vertically to the crack that leads to the left corner of the ceiling. Immediately after exceeding the ceiling, under another small tavanel, we're belay station, arranged on the expansion bolts and chain. The length is 45 m and a maximum degree of 6+.

LC2 - Go through the left of the pool climbing on a face almost vertical which, together with the arch on the right, forming a dihedral closed, the chimney type. 5 m above the dihedron is closed by a beetle which is bypassed on the left side, prinzînd a rift that leads us upward to a brîna grassy where it is located and a belay station interim, the pitons. Catch a dihedral on the right side of brînei then, after overcoming it, continue the vertical exceeding a small threshold grass where bumped up a little by having on the right a small shoulder. We get on a verandah chest of drawers where you can regroup. The length is 35 m and the difficulty of the grade 7 - to overhanging climbing after departure.
LC3 - Go to the left bypassing a shoulder of the face on the basis of which I regrouped. After it climbs vertical easily right over some thresholds more friable prinzînd a small crack that goes vertical the left. At the beginning of this cracks is a boulder the size of a large watermelon, and that gives a very tempting outlet, but that is moving very quickly.

After overcoming this portion we get to the place where they split two cracks parallel, inclined to the left. Climb the one on the left with great care at the beginning where there is a plate loose and we're forced to kind of use. The crack is closed above by a large boulder. Here cross over to the crack in the right place secured with a nail and, immediately above, with a spit. Outrun the boulder and continue on to a crack that leads to a ramp facing to the left. At the beginning of this ramp, we can see in the top right of the belay station of the route Galiani. So after overcoming the boulder and climb the crack continue to the left on a sloping front under an arch. After passing the arch, we come to a face compact, straight up slightly to the left then do a desca?arare slight to the left reaching a threshold convenient where regroup. The length is 50 m and grade 6+ on the passage under the boulder.
LC4 - Go vertical on a technique that forms a small crack with the arch on the right. Here is the key step of the route, rated with grade 7. It is well assured with four expansion bolts and two pitons.
Once exceeded this passage the route crosses to the left under an arch, with the legs on one side slightly down and with the plugs good. At the completion of the arch we climb up vertical left for a larch tree that is located on a brîna grassy. Continue to the left on this brîna until we get in the pool, actually two pools side by side. The length is 25 m and the degree 7 immediately after leaving the pool.

LC5 - it Is a length that we've never done it, but who, by hearsay, go to the left and then up and down, over thresholds fallow and more brittle then continues among the juniper trees up on the Ridge Co?tila-Marigold where it ends after about 70 km. This length is not necessary of course if they choose rappel descent, not by traversing the Ridge Co?tila-Marigold.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2014/07/traseul-balcoanelor-5a-7-7-impus-5lc.html
Mihai Dăiţoiu - http://via-aventura.blogspot.ro/
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2012/07/09/traseul-balcoanelor-peretele-costilei/
Dana şi Gabi Bazacliu - http://danabaza.blogspot.ro/2014/01/bucegi-traseul-balcoanelor-5a.html
Silvia Iordache - http://silvia-iordache.blogspot.ro/2007/09/tr-balcoane-5a.html
Mihai Kelemen, Balcoanele, Munții Carpați, anul V, 2001, nr. 27, pag. 51-54
Poză - Ciri Turcanu - https://get.google.com/albumarchive/101788338587278580707/album/AF1QipMToKLQJCXW-_zA_vf9UpbnMeAJ9RIRJY9wr22L

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: At the Refuge Co?tila ascends the Valley Co?tilei, passing a few jumpers large. This is the first route established which appears on the bottom of the Valley Co?tilei.
The trail starts from the right Jumpers Large of the valley, bouncing that can be addressed somewhat directly, on the fissure (right-hand crack that emerges in the right of entry in the route) or on the faces with pebbles on the left (more exposed), traversing again on the valley at the end of the barrier and descending a few meters to the entrance marked with white writing.
Retreat route: The possibilities of withdrawal from the Route the Balconies are multiple:

further by jnepenii above in the Ridge Co?tila-Marigold, where they make the booster into the Valley of Marigolds (need to pay attention to withdrawal on brânele from the Valley Marigold);
further by jnepenii above and completing the Ridge Co?tila-Marigold (requires some time), with the descent then in the Bucegi mountains plateau;
abseiling in the Valley Co?tilei and the ascent of the valley or its descent to the refuge Co?tila;
abseiling in the Valley Co?tilei, crossing the latter and descending to the refuge Co?tila by the Edge with Juniper trees and on Vâlcelul Rocky.
The last pool is shared with the route Caesar Vargulescu. Thus, it can make two simbols on line the route Caesar Vargulescu up in the Valley Co?tilei (with half ropes of 60m). From here the descent is done either directly on the bottom of the valley, be coursing through shoulder grass and juniper trees across the street from the Wall Co?tilei (the Edge with Juniper), from where it descends on the feet (possibly with small boosts, if it feels the need) on the vâlcelul that separates the Wall of the Eagle of the nose have anything to do Little. Thus, we arrive again in the vicinity of the Refuge Co?tila.

Topo

Topo

Sursă: Mihai Dăiţoiu

Pictures


Traseul Balcoanelor, Sursă: Ciri Turcanu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Traseul Balcoanelor, Sursă: Ciri Turcanu

Users who climbed the route


Vasile Dumitrică - 29.06.2019, Vara
- 29.06.2019Destul de friabil pe alocuri.
Jabon - 15.09.2018, Vara
- 15.09.2018
Iulian Pobleanu - 24.08.2018, Vara
- 24.08.2018
Chereches Cristian - 11.08.2018, Vara
- 11.08.2018Traseu frumos si bine echipat
Bercean Ioan - 11.08.2018, Vara
- 11.08.2018Traseu frumos si bine echipat
Iulia Darie - 05.08.2018, Vara
- 05.08.2018
Constantinescu Anita - 10.06.2018, Vara
- 10.06.2018
Cristian Popescu - 05.07.2014, Vara
- 05.07.2014
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980

Users who wish to climb the route


Iulia Darie
Chereches Cristian
Bogdan Lazăr

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Mihai Sava - 05.08.2018

Video - Mihai Sava - 10.06.2013

Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: At the Refuge Co?tila ascends the Valley Co?tilei, passing a few jumpers large. This is the first route established which appears on the bottom of the Valley Co?tilei.
The trail starts from the right Jumpers Large of the valley, bouncing that can be addressed somewhat directly, on the fissure (right-hand crack that emerges in the right of entry in the route) or on the faces with pebbles on the left (more exposed), traversing again on the valley at the end of the barrier and descending a few meters to the entrance marked with white writing.
Retreat route: The possibilities of withdrawal from the Route the Balconies are multiple:

further by jnepenii above in the Ridge Co?tila-Marigold, where they make the booster into the Valley of Marigolds (need to pay attention to withdrawal on brânele from the Valley Marigold);
further by jnepenii above and completing the Ridge Co?tila-Marigold (requires some time), with the descent then in the Bucegi mountains plateau;
abseiling in the Valley Co?tilei and the ascent of the valley or its descent to the refuge Co?tila;
abseiling in the Valley Co?tilei, crossing the latter and descending to the refuge Co?tila by the Edge with Juniper trees and on Vâlcelul Rocky.
The last pool is shared with the route Caesar Vargulescu. Thus, it can make two simbols on line the route Caesar Vargulescu up in the Valley Co?tilei (with half ropes of 60m). From here the descent is done either directly on the bottom of the valley, be coursing through shoulder grass and juniper trees across the street from the Wall Co?tilei (the Edge with Juniper), from where it descends on the feet (possibly with small boosts, if it feels the need) on the vâlcelul that separates the Wall of the Eagle of the nose have anything to do Little. Thus, we arrive again in the vicinity of the Refuge Co?tila.

Equipment


Traseul Balcoanelor, Sursă: Ciri Turcanu

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