On 06.12.1920 Ionel Coman was born.

Creasta Vulturilor (Uriaşului) (The Crest Of The Eagle (Giant)) 3B, 7 (6, A0)
3,00/5 (2 votes)




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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 20.03.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 3B
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7
Type: Classic route

 Sursă poză: Rupi 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Length: 3 pitches
Altitude: 1700 m
Height: 200 m
Climb duration: 2 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsRidge

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Ionel Coman, Dorin Grigorescu, Constantin Conteş
Date: 20.07.1946
Second ascent (First repeat): Niculae Baticu, Dan Popescu
Date: 21.07.1946
First winter ascent: Valentin Garner, Werner Putz
Date: 02.1957


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The entrance on trail Ridge Eagle presents two variants: the first, which gives us the opportunity to conduct the complete course of the ridge; the second, located upstream of the first route, on the Vâlcelul Rocky, avoids the first two lengths of the chord from the initial route.

Variant I. the First two L. C. follows the line of the ridge, and the first obstacles of this itinerary start from the thalweg Vâlcelului Rocky. Presenting a few difficult points, and with the rock very crumbly, this portion is escalating with the help of 2-3 pitons.
Variant II. To reach the point of penetration on the second option, located approx. 80 m upstream of the first entry, we follow up the thread Vâlcelului Rocky. It deviates slightly to the right, taking the appearance of a canyon.

After switching a few jumpers, vâlcelul turns into a chimney vertical. From this place we can distinguish on the left, on the face of what escapes from the Crest of Eagles, a window through which we enter easily, coming out on the trail the first choice.

LC1 After the first 10 m, along a passage with the rock very solid, touch the line of the ridge, which we follow up a portion of a penchant middle, up to the height of porches with juniper trees, where we regroup.
LC2 here, parasind ridge - the rise of direct being extremely difficult - we descend to the left, in a ditch along the slope rocky, on whose blade up, aiming to the left a broad platform.
LC3 The following is the most difficult passage on the way. With a swipe to the right over a few rapids rocky, get to the bottom of the cracks wider, on the conduct to which are fixed a few pitons tubular. The portions are moves. At the end of this passage, which does not exceed 25 m, we meet a small threshold that allows us a new pool.

From here, you can rappel or you can continue on the ridge, the difficulties decreased. The following two L. C. shall require a climbing careful, over a succession of savage and walls fisurati, interrupted by small overhangs, which they get right. Out like this in the Ridge Vali White in the right of entry in the Girdle of the Airline.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - W Kargel, 2000
Poză: Rupi

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    

Topo

Topo

Creasta Vulturilor (Uriaşului)

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Sursă poză: Rupi

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Sursă poză: Rupi

Users who climbed the route


Constantinescu Anita - 03.02.2019, Iarna
- 03.02.2019
LauraB - 16.06.2013, Vara
- 16.06.2013
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980
Wilhelm Martini - 24.08.1979, Vara
- 24.08.1979

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Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    

Equipment


Sursă poză: Rupi

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