Diedrul Porumbeilor 5B, 6b+/6c (5c, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 26.10.2014
edited by Ad Mini la data de 21.07.2016

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 5c
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 6b+/6c
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Nicolae Budeancă (Gâgă) 
Orientation: S
Length: 5 pitches
Recommended season: spring
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsDihedralCrackGrass

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Moldovan, Vasile Lazăr, László Morávek
Date: 1985


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

A feature of the route are long passages of free, with insurance rare, Dan Moldovan, author of the route being one of the initiators of the movement of climbing in our country. The route has been reworked with expansion bolts in the pool.

LC 1: It starts on a face down, slightly left to a vertical crack on the overcome in the bavarian. After the crack is running a short traverse right to a small brâna with grass. And here in a traverse left horizontally about 10 m, with the pitons rare, but with the intakes of healthy. We get in the first pool, beside a tree dry (very comfortable - as well as all the 5 pools current).

LC 2: Start with a beetle what is beyond artificial, up and slightly left. Then follows a long stretch of 30 m to the left, with the pitons rare, but they can supplement with friend. Regroup in the area of trees.

LC 3: In the third the length it starts on a crack fine overhangta. Continue up towards the ceiling and overcome them where their projection is less. It then ascends the vertical, this being slightly brittle until the girdle of the sea that cross the wall. Found a belay station intermediate to the exit on the brâna, here you can retreat to the Hili (left), the belay station of the real is at 15 km on the right, on the brâna, at the base of a crack with grass.

LC 4: THE fourth continuous length on the crack, at first, easy steps. At the exit of the rift is a step more delicate, but it can pass artificial. It continues in the top on a very easy portion, boulders and grass, until it appears dihedron of the last lengths, the one who gives the name of the route. Regrouping is on a broad platform of grass, near a tree.

LC 5: In the last length, it goes left into the dihedral, there are about 4 cams in total. It can go in opposition or in ramonaj.
Information source
Alin Brădeanu - https://picasaweb.google.com/107327912843541180946/DiedrulPorumbeilor5BCuNicolaeBudeancaGaga

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 46° 33' 54.4" E 23° 40' 37.4"    

Pictures


Sursă: Nicolae Budeancă (Gâgă)

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Sursă: Nicolae Budeancă (Gâgă)

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Map



GPS: N 46° 33' 54.4" E 23° 40' 37.4"    

Equipment


Sursă: Nicolae Budeancă (Gâgă)

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