Today we celebrate 84 years since Furcile (Peretele Gălbenelelor) first ascent

Fight for Life (Fight for Life) A1
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  • Diaries/Climbs (6)
  • Video (1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 26.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 12.02.2016

General characteristics


Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Type: Trad/Aid

 Sursă Silvia Murgescu 
Orientation: S
Length: 5 pitches
Recommended season: spring
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routeMechanical anchorsCams/NutsAid climbingCrackFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Nicolae Budeancă
Date: 2009


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Luke 1: 38 m, VI+, insurance of fixed (tree), insurance mobile. Up several rapids, rocks, insurance on the nuts until brâna that provided by cultivating land. There, climb up left to a cracked clear where coverage is quite low. The crack can be achieved with frenduri, and climb over the Bavarian with a lot of excellent holiday destinations. Even over fisurii is belay station.

Luke 2: 28 m, VII, A1, 10 insurance of fixed assets, insurance mobile. Through the Bavarian and return the beautiful climbing to get enough to secure the first braid from the sequence 10 spituri. The following spituri crosses the face wash, where there were no insurance options mobile. I trudged in artificially scari?a performing the construction is quite stretched. Sometimes the stapes had to continue with 1-2-3 movements on the rock, able to assure, the next braids. In the final part goes on the cracks guarantee with frienduri and nuts. This crack will lead us to regroup.

LC 3: 20 m, VII+, 5 insurance of fixed assets, insurance mobile. He crosses the right side of the crack, which seems heavier than really is, climb the crack, providing with frienduri and nuts, or spit, where there is no possibility of mobile devices that exceed a small surplombi?a which is another spit. The last scythe is right in front of aggregators, where there is a more gentle step rise on brâna, where it crosses to the right, balance.

LK 4: 39 m, VIII, insurance with a fixed insurance mobile. He goes to the right and crawl to get under the grotto, where you can secure on your mobile. The nail is provided below, and then, using the stirrup and the cliff site will rise in the tube large hands, one of them can mount one walnut. And then use a stirrup with cliff, make sure to spit, and then the hourglass, then we are in a period right at the base of a wide crack chimney where confident in frenduri. In the upper part of the crack narrows and becomes overhangnta. Above it we find belay station, even on the edge of the atmosphere is very airy.

LC 5: 36m, VII, insurance with a fixed insurance mobile. First we climb the cracks, and then all kinds pragule?e and actions Feeney balance, as well as the construction and tender. Insurance options are quite low. The first and only braid at this length is under overhang. After overcoming surplombei the complexity of the route is reduced, but the possibility of reduced insurance. She goes to the crest, which is also the last belay station.
Information source
Text, Poze - http://www.silvique.ro/2013/05/2013-04-28-cheile-turzii-tr-trad-fight-for-life-vi-a1-5lc.html
Poze - Silvia Murgescu - http://www.silvique.ro/2014/04/2014-03-08-cheile-turzii-traseul-bulinel-6b-9lc.html
Topo - Nicolae Budeancă (Gâgă)

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 46° 33' 51.4" E 23° 40' 40.6"    
Access route: After he crosses the bridge 3 from the middle of the keys on the wall in front of us appears an inscription written in red “Fight for Life”.
Retreat route: In the last redistribution the range is ~3m, which is the nail with the ring. To the left, you can make an amplifier out of it, or you can go down slowly climbed to his feet along the belt, hovering Szent Laszlo, as close as possible to the right wall (as you look at the valley). Even over vâlcel is a nail with a ring (rearrangement route Ave Maria), where you can take another booster short about 15 m to the rating of the route Vaja con Dios, 2 spituri both with the ring.

Topo

Topo

Fight for Life

Pictures


Sursă Silvia Murgescu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursă Silvia Murgescu

Users who wish to climb the route


Chereches Cristian

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Páll Endre - 03.09.2011

Map



GPS: N 46° 33' 51.4" E 23° 40' 40.6"    
Access route: After he crosses the bridge 3 from the middle of the keys on the wall in front of us appears an inscription written in red “Fight for Life”.
Retreat route: In the last redistribution the range is ~3m, which is the nail with the ring. To the left, you can make an amplifier out of it, or you can go down slowly climbed to his feet along the belt, hovering Szent Laszlo, as close as possible to the right wall (as you look at the valley). Even over vâlcel is a nail with a ring (rearrangement route Ave Maria), where you can take another booster short about 15 m to the rating of the route Vaja con Dios, 2 spituri both with the ring.

Equipment


Sursă Silvia Murgescu

Comments