Today we celebrate 61 years since Hornul Peretelui Central (Peretele Padinei Închise) first ascent

Bulinel 6B, 6c/6c+ (6b, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 26.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 12.02.2016

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6B
Mandatory grade: 6b
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 6c/6c+
Type: Classic route

 Bulinel 
Orientation: S
Length: 10 pitches
Recommended season: spring
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

5 star routePitonsCams/NutsAid climbingVerticalCrackFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Paul Popescu, Nicolae Budeancă
Date: 2010


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The length of the second route line is a tangent to the route Calvaria, the rearrangement of the second. In the belay station of the third Bulinel route intersects with the route of the Ave Maria, and the fourth rearrangement is shared with the rating of the route Vaja con Dios.

1 LC – m 36, V: the entrance at the Ha?datelui, Calvariei left, between the slopes for climbing ATA 2000 and the cat (the first Python shows, it's hard). Rises first length wet, but easier, perhaps, 5-th class, which are about 3 pitons. After about 15 m to get to vâlcel pamântos then, including to the grotto.

LC 2 + LC 3 – 35 m, A1: line pitons bad, partially whipped, necura?ata continues straight up. This part can be avoided, the route Calvaria. Thus, immediately after he crosses the yard, where pitonsle from Calvaria and then continue vertically upwards along the line of route Calvaria. To get to the first redistribution, but not including here, but she's still up at the crack, which runs through chimneyule? with 2 nests of pigeons and soon, under 20 m, inclusive.

LC 4 – 20 m, VIII: the fourth Length is quite short, but more difficult, thinner cracks, with the movements in the air beautiful, well provided with steps and are forced, probably in 6+/7-. After overcoming fisurii it, including the left, together with Ave Maria. Here is Ave Maria from nails coming right up, and our route continues to bypass to the left. Attention! Here, if you grabe?ti you can easily continue up/right on pitonsle of Ave Maria.

5 LC – 31 m VII: begins with traverseu is exposed to the left until it does not exceed one edge. After the edges we come to earth that seems fragile, weaker assured. Something above should arcade that runs beautifully in the air, in a wide sprai?uri. Length comes at wide brâna Szent Laszlo, where bundle.

LC 6 – 45 m, VII: This is the most beautiful route. Go to split rock sinuoasa clean, plugs are good, grip is excellent, insurance is not much, but enough, and, although it is provided strictly with pitons, has a clear movement of climbing. You can view fully in the air, not moving sockets. The degree of the air should be around 7.

7 LC – 46 m, VIII+: the seventh route length, key length, with aisles terminated outputs from scari?e and passes taxes. Sometimes you have to get out of scari?e at the outlet is insignificant, don't look at least where the next Python. Insurance rare, step has introduced e to the power of 7. I've been here about two movements in a more complex, but it is very beautiful.

LC 8 – 20 m, II: easy length of about 20 m, which will take us to the top of the Calvaria, then crosses strange on crestuli?a narrow as a razor blade and very airy. Find the point of the booster, where booster short. The continuation of the route begins near a large boulder.

9 LC – 53 m, VI: Starts waiting, which it crosses, when we would go to the Memorial. See, initially, the Python on the face of the fallen. Above overhang crossed the path of the ridge easy. This is the last difficult obstacle. Should the crested enclaves and banal, leading to a small saddle on the penultimate rearrangement.

10 LC – 39 m V: climb the easy ridge that seems to be loose, high and insurance is enough. To get to the belay station of the finale, where the leaves and memorial. Here we can easily set on top of the cross.

The degree of difficulty of the route Bulinel-LIVE, A1 (VIII-A1). It's harder than the route Jenci Memorial Bacsi and is worth the extent of classic – 6B.
Information source
Text - Nicolae Budeancă (Gâgă)
Poze - Silvia Murgescu - http://www.silvique.ro/2014/04/2014-03-08-cheile-turzii-traseul-bulinel-6b-9lc.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 46° 33' 51.4" E 23° 40' 40.6"    

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Diaries & links



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Video - Páll Endre - 04.09.2011

Map



GPS: N 46° 33' 51.4" E 23° 40' 40.6"    

Equipment


Bulinel

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