Today we celebrate 62 years since Muchia Estică (Matei Schenn) (Turnuleţul) first ascent.  Today we celebrate 46 years since Traseu fără nume (Peretele Răchitei) first ascent.  

Memorial Jenci Bacsi (Jenci Bacsi Memorial) 6A
5,00/5 (1 vote)




3570 page views


  • Description
  • Pictures (3)
  • Diaries/Climbs (21)
  • Video (13)
  • Map
  • Equipment
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 26.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 25.06.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Mandatory grade: 5
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 7
Quickdraws: 
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Memorial Jenci Bacsi 
Orientation: W
Length: 9 pitches
Recommended season: spring-autumn
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsSlabVerticalOverhangCrackChimneyTreesGrassRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Nicolae Budeancă, Csaba Nagy, Marian Stoica, Aurel Geană, Adi Vana, Mihai Vasile
Date: 2007


Route description

We crossed the water of Hășdate river and on the right to the entrance of Madona Neagră pe found, written in small red letters, the name of the route.

1st pitch: we overpass two small rock thresholds and catch a white crack that goes a little to the right and then up. We briefly use the crack, but quickly traverse horizontally for about 7m to the right towards the suspended belay station. This is a shared belay station with the Vaja con Dios route.

2nd pitch: we continue straight above the belay station. As we encounter an intermediate belay (not from our route), we catch the obvious crack on the right. When the crack closes, a last peg announces we must traverse several meters to the left, on an obvious thin rock ledge where we will find the belay.

3rd pitch: continues straight up. At first we have a vertical face that leads to a small chimney we must free climb. After it there is another chimney. Before the belay station we encounter an overhang we overpass on the left by a big crack with good holds but a little physical. The belay station is right above it, quite comfortable. Beautiful pitch, very exposed and with beautiful rock.

4th pitch: we continue on the rock face above the belay, towards an obvious arch. We avoided using the crack that leads to the arch, as it is a little crumbly. We mostly used the face. As we rich the arch we cross it to the right. The section is well protected with pegs. Directly on the line of the pegs it is quite difficult, but a little on their right the difficulty is smaller and can be free climbed (7-). The belay is on the left, as we traverse into a grassy rock face/chimney. Communication can be difficult in the team.

5th pitch: continues on the face above the belay towards a small cave. The cave becomes a chimney that we climb directly, after which we continue on the face crossed by small cracks. We overpass a small boulder and 7 m above it we find the belay station. Suspended.

6th pitch: a long pitch, continues on the faces above the belay. The next belay is in a grassy chimney to the left, where we couldn't hear each other.

7th pitch: we continue on the easy grassy dihedral above, with little in place protection, until we reach the Martyr Peak. From here we will abseil 10-15 meters in the suspended garden we discover bellow us. We cross the garden to the left (over 70m), at the base of the walls, we pass the first rock face where we can see some pegs, and reach a rock circus on the left. We continue up, surfing between grass and bushes, until we reach the base of the wall.

8th pitch: we go up on easy terrain with little in place protection. From bellow the pitch looks grassy, but it proved in better condition and cleaner than expected. We went up, sensible to the right. As the pegs were not very visible from bellow, we went a little on trust, a little on following the line, drawn in the sketch, that went very sensitive to the right. Belay on a rock ledge, very comfortable.

9th pitch: from the belay we can see an obvious crack to the right. We traverse towards it and we follow it until we reach the end of the route and the Sândulestilor Cross.


Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2014/05/memorial-jenci-bacsi-9lc-5b-7-5a1.html
Mihai Dăițoiu - http://via-aventura.blogspot.ro/
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2014/04/28/memorial-jenci-bacsi-6a-cheile-turzii/
Poză - Silvia Murgescu - http://www.silvique.ro/2010/06/20100605-memorial-jencsi-bacsi-cheile.html
Poză 2 - Vlad Condratov - http://vladcondratov.blogspot.ro/2010/03/cheile-turzii.html
Poză 3 - Silvia Murgescu - http://www.silvique.ro/2014/04/2014-03-08-cheile-turzii-traseul-bulinel-6b-9lc.html
https://sangealb.wordpress.com/2015/02/24/ienti-baci-o-legenda-a-cheilor-turzii/

Access and retreat

GPS: N 46° 33' 51.4" E 23° 40' 40.6"    
Access route: We enter Cheile Turzii from Petrestii de Jos village. Following the touristic trail that crosses the gorge. As we reach the highest wall, which rises from the waters of Hășdate river, we cross the river to the left. We can see from the other side the name of several routes, such as the famous Madona Neagră. The entrance to Jenci Baci Memorial is to its right.
Access duration: 15 min
Retreat route: From the Sânduleștilor Cross the trail descends into a small valley only to go rapidly up again on the plateau. From here you can turn left to get back to Petreștii de Jos or right to get to Cheia Village and the Salvamont Hut. Both trails lead you in 15 minutes at the entrance in the gorge.
Retreat duration: 20 min

Topo

Topo

topo traseu Jenci Bacsi Cheile Turzii. Sursă: via-aventura.blogspot.ro

Pictures


Memorial Jenci Bacsi

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Memorial Jenci Bacsi

User who climbed the route


Chereches Cristian - 21.07.2018, Vara
Bercean Ioan - 21.07.2018, Vara
Lucian Apostu - 23.06.2018
Rosmalin Alin - 07.10.2017, Vara
Cristian Popescu - 12.04.2015, Vara
manoliu - 18.07.2014, Vara

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Páll Endre - 11.06.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 11.06.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 11.06.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 11.06.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 11.06.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 11.06.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 11.06.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 11.06.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 11.06.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 11.06.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 17.06.2016

Video - Páll Endre - 30.04.2011

Video - Silvia Murgescu - 05.06.2010

Map



GPS: N 46° 33' 51.4" E 23° 40' 40.6"    
Access route: We enter Cheile Turzii from Petrestii de Jos village. Following the touristic trail that crosses the gorge. As we reach the highest wall, which rises from the waters of Hășdate river, we cross the river to the left. We can see from the other side the name of several routes, such as the famous Madona Neagră. The entrance to Jenci Baci Memorial is to its right.
Retreat route: From the Sânduleștilor Cross the trail descends into a small valley only to go rapidly up again on the plateau. From here you can turn left to get back to Petreștii de Jos or right to get to Cheia Village and the Salvamont Hut. Both trails lead you in 15 minutes at the entrance in the gorge.

Equipment


Rope: half ropes, 60m
Quickdraws: 
Cams and nuts: 1 set of nuts
Memorial Jenci Bacsi

Comments