Vigh Tibor (Vigh Tibor) 5B
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  • Description
  • Diaries/Climbs (14)
  • Video (8)
  • Map
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added by Ad Min la data de 26.10.2014
edited by Lilith la data de 06.06.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 8-
Type: Technical rock climbing

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Orientation: W
Length: 8 pitches
Recommended season: spring-autumn
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsAid climbingRecommended

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Tibor Vigh, László Molnár, B. Vigh
Date: 1969


Route description

1st pitch (50m, 5): we start the route across the river Hășdate, a small rock ledge. We continue on a long crack which goes diagonally left. While advancing, the crack becomes a grassy chimney, before arriving in a comfortable belay station. This pitch intersects Ilegal, which has a very clear line, protected only with bolts.

2nd pitch (45m, 6+): starts traversing diagonally right. The beginning has a delicate step, with friction holds for legs, after which the terrain becomes easier. We traverse a lot right, on a crack, after which the protections lead us upwards over easy ground (more like rock steps). The belay station is right under the ridge Peretele Uriaș, the ridge that makes the split between it and the wall to the left.

3rd pitch (30m, 3): the route continues on the easy ridge. At the end of the ridge Vigh Tibor meets Madona Neagră route. Madona Neagră continues to the right and starts traversing. Vigh Tibor continues upwards. At the end of the ridge you need to follow an easy chimney with some loose rock. You will find one or two pegs on it. At the end of the chimney, on the wall in front of you, there is a bolted belay station.

4th pitch (30m, 6+): we start traversing diagonally left around 10-15 meters over small cracks, under an overhang, until we rich a dihedral. We continue upwards on the dihedral until we reach a belay station.

5th pitch (38m, 7-/7): we head up towards a crack that looks like an arch and we traverse left under it, continuing on a large crack that opens a chimney further up. At the end of the chimney you will find an intermediate belay station on pegs. We continued, traversing right over a small face with a delicate step, and catching another chimney at the end of witch we set the belay station on bolts.

6th pitch (28m, 6, A1): here you will find the crux, 8-/6c. It has to variants: traversing diagonally right and then going up on old pegs, A1; taking the variant above, bolted, with a crux of 8- n between bolts.
We took the classical option, on old pegs, as we started traversing diagonally right on very old pegs, A1. They don't look trustworthy at all, but at least there is a lot of them and the belay station is bolted. So we ascend on a blank rock face until we reach a clear ridge, over which we find the bolted belay station. Not a great belay station, as the ropes suffer a lot of friction.

7th pitch (35m, 4): goes through the right of the ridge, on some slabs and cracks which leads us to the ridge. We climb it to the end, where we find the belay station (2 bolts). Common belay station with Quo Vadis.

8th pitch (60m, 6): Common pitch with Quo Vadis. Goes vertically on a ridge, goes over a face with good holds, then on the ridge. Difficulties end and also the fixed gear. Belay station after 60 meters, at 2 bolts.
Information source
Cristian Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2015/04/traseul-vigh-tibor-8lc-7-7-varianta-8-8.html
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2014/06/12/traseul-vigh-tibor-cheile-turzii/
Mihai Dăiţoiu - http://via-aventura.blogspot.ro/

Access and retreat

Access route: We enter the Turzii Gorge the village Petreștii de Jos. We take the trail that gets us deeper the gorge, going along the river bed. Once we get near Peretele Uriaș, the most prominent wall, we have to traverse the river.
On the other side of the river we can see clearly the entrance in several classical routes, among which the famous Madona Neagră. The name of the routes is written on the wall. A little to the left of Madona Neagră is the entrance to Vigh Tibor.
Retreat route: The Domogled plateau the path descends near the Sânduleștilor Cross then goes immediately up on the other side. here you can descend left, towards Petreștii de Jos, or right, towards Cheia Village. It is an easy walk taking around 15-20 minutes.

Topo

Topo

topo Vigh Tibor. Sursă Mihai Dăiţoiu

Pictures


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Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



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User who climbed the route


Lucian Apostu - 30.09.2017
Andrei Holban - 04.06.2017, Vara
Rupi - 04.06.2017, Vara
Cristian Popescu - 11.04.2015, Vara
manoliu - 01.05.2013, Vara
Marian Anghel - 01.04.1998, Vara

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Páll Endre - 08.07.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 08.07.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 08.07.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 08.07.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 08.07.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 08.07.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 08.07.2017

Video - Páll Endre - 08.07.2017

Map



GPS: N 4,65642972710161E+15°0.0' E 2,36779451116486E+15°0.0'    
Access route: We enter the Turzii Gorge the village Petreștii de Jos. We take the trail that gets us deeper the gorge, going along the river bed. Once we get near Peretele Uriaș, the most prominent wall, we have to traverse the river.
On the other side of the river we can see clearly the entrance in several classical routes, among which the famous Madona Neagră. The name of the routes is written on the wall. A little to the left of Madona Neagră is the entrance to Vigh Tibor.
Retreat route: The Domogled plateau the path descends near the Sânduleștilor Cross then goes immediately up on the other side. here you can descend left, towards Petreștii de Jos, or right, towards Cheia Village. It is an easy walk taking around 15-20 minutes.

Equipment


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