Today we celebrate George Stroie (Bivuacu), who reached the beautiful age of 45 years. Happy birthday!. Today we celebrate 86 years since Traseul Clasic (Colţul Gălbenelelor) first ascent, 64 years since Traseul Victor Măciucă (Trasee de perete) first ascent

Traseul Căţărătorului (Climbers Route) 4B, 7- (6+, A0)
4,00/5 (3 votes)




3411 page views


  • Description
  • Pictures (2)
  • Diaries/Climbs (29)
  • Video (2)
  • Map
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 05.05.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7-
Type: Classic route

 Traseul Căţărătorului 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Length: 3 pitches
Altitude: 1690 m
Height: 60
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsChemical anchorsMechanical anchorsFace climbingCrackGrassFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Vasilescu, Adrian Bianu
Date: 1979


Route description

Pitch 1: Climb up the wider crack (the crack is on the right side of a grassy gully). After about 15 meters we come to a small ledge, where is the crux of the pitch, a thin vertical crack, 6-7 meter long, having pitons and chemical anchors. At the end of the crack we traverse 2 meters to the right, arriving to the belay station (piton+chemical anchor). Do not continue on the ascending grassy ledge to the belay station we see above; that is the first belay station from ATP. Pitch length 35 meters and a 6+ grade.

Pitch 2: Start traversing to the left for 6-7 meters. The traverse has many fixed protection. At the end of the traverse we follow a crack until we reach the belay station. The crux of the route is after 35 meters (5 meters below the belay station) and consists of climbing a slightly overhanging section of the crack. Attention, below the crux, and above it we will see a line of manufactured bolts. These are from The Jack route.

Pitch 3: Short pitch, about 12 meters until a big ledge. Consists of some face climbing with beautiful moves. We can continue upwards until at the top of Ţancul Ascuţit, descending on the other side of Ţancul Ascuţit, but the climbing is elementary.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2017/08/traseul-cataratorului.html
Silvia Iordache - http://silvia-iordache.blogspot.ro/2007/07/tr-cataratorului-4b.html

Access and retreat

Track GPS:  - Refugiul Costila.gpx
GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: We down climb 2 meters from Coştila Refuge. The route starts on an obvious crack, to the right of a grassy gully.
Retreat route: We can abseil if we have 60 meter ropes. Otherwise we go to the summit of Ţancul Ascuţit and down climb on the other side, towards the ridge which connects Coştila Valley and Gălbenele Valley.

Topo

Topo

Traseul Căţărătorului
Traseul Căţărătorului

Pictures


Traseul Căţărătorului

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links


  • 24.08.2016 Vali Oprea, Victor Porancia
  • 23.07.2016 Gabi Tudorie, Junioru

Traseul Căţărătorului

Users who climbed the route


Adrian Scurtu - 20.07.2019, Vara
- 20.07.2019Prima lungime.
Adi Min - 04.05.2019
- 04.05.2019
Jabon - 04.05.2019
- 04.05.2019
Rosmalin Alin - 19.09.2017
- 19.09.2017
Andrei - 18.12.2016, Iarna
- 18.12.2016
Andrei - 10.07.2016
- 10.07.2016
Mihai Barbu - 10.07.2016
- 10.07.2016
Andrei - 23.04.2016, Vara
- 23.04.2016
Adi Min - 23.04.2016, Vara
- 23.04.2016
Andrei - 21.11.2015
- 21.11.2015
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980
Razvan Hotea

Users who wish to climb the route


Stefan

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Mihai Sava - 04.05.2019

Video - Winter Alps Trilogy 2013 - 16.12.2012

Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: We down climb 2 meters from Coştila Refuge. The route starts on an obvious crack, to the right of a grassy gully.
Retreat route: We can abseil if we have 60 meter ropes. Otherwise we go to the summit of Ţancul Ascuţit and down climb on the other side, towards the ridge which connects Coştila Valley and Gălbenele Valley.

Equipment


Traseul Căţărătorului

Comments