Today we celebrate 2 years since Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent

Petit Jackson M4
4,00/5 (3 votes)




2623 page views


  • Description
  • Pictures (3)
  • Diaries/Climbs (7)
  • Videos
  • Map
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 24.02.2020

General characteristics


Mixed climbing grade: M4
Type: Mixt

 Sursă: Escamonde Ploiești 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: N
Length: 4 pitches
Altitude: 1600 m
Height: 150 m
Recommended season: winter
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

SlabTreesGrass

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Cornel Sain


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Petit Jackson, run out of the Valley of the Co?tilei and continues to be on the north side of the ?ancului to the mountain pass to buck me up, Too. The trail is recommended only during the winter, after a fresh snowfall and periods of subzero temperatures in order to take the land, and the grass was frozen. The route has several variations, the one shown below (which takes longer than the left) is one of the most beautiful and clean.



LK 1: Go up the ramp to sufiecienta the snow, ensuring that the trees on the left. After 30 m, the field becomes more vertical, the snow is getting thinner. Here we have a premium area, in which you have to be careful (on the right, a tree fell down, horizontal): for the last insurance, it is very, very low. After crossing it, we arrive at a tree with a rope, but it is not recommended to be grouped. 5 the above, more comfortably, in a tree. 55 meters, the degree of M2+



LC 2: At the top near the trees, then up a ramp, easy to pere?elul in the face. Here, you can put the nut on the left-hand side. Cross the right hand under the pere?el, and then, at the top of a ramp, the light, and then, very carefully, we have to traverse back left to the pere?elului. Grouped on the left of the first tree. 45 m, the level of the M3



LC-3: it's a long light. At the top of a ramp, make sure the trees on the right, across a short left hand in order to grab the pad from above (here, if there is not enough snow it can be a small step in the joint, but not to ask questions, with assurance of the right to the tree). Up on the ramp (which is like a clearing in the trees, and the rock), we arrive at a valley, where they have to desca?aram 1 m, cross to the other side and work our way up throughout the a clearing in the trees and the wall. Go to a tall tree's fallen orizonal (on the bypass, on the right), and regroup at the last tree before the ramp in the front. 55m, grade-M2

LK 4: up on the ramp. It can be mounted to a player, that player's average, which is excellent on the crack in the left side (length of 5 to 6 cm) and then another 5 meters up on the left, into a well (3-4cm), the friend that also is excellent. Next up the route, there is a vertical area with the cushions of the pot is not very big, not very stable, and the rock a little friable. The passage is a short-term (4 to 5), but we're not really allowed to make. From the moment we arrived at the tree, things become more commonplace, a valley why do we take the mountain pass, where it ends, and Hermann Buhl. Re-baiting of the left-hand side. 55m, grade-M4
Information source
Poze - Rupi și Escamonde Ploiești

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Track GPS:  - Tancul Mic.gpx
GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: The route starts from the Valley of the Co?tilei, once you get the first jumper (which can also be found), in an area of the wall clean, free from vegetation.
Retreat route: From the saddle we go towards the left side, and on the other side of the ridge, we followed a hiking trail Carpenter St., has mounted the fixed ropes, which are of great help as it saves us from having to use the cords of their own, which means surpîndu at any given time. After the completion of the string fixed across a a little time up in the mountain pass of the tree to the booster. From here:
either we are carrying out a dose of 20 meters and then get off the trail, among the junipers, until you arrive at the base of the ?ancului Small
either we are carrying out a dose of at least 6 m, if there is enough snow in the vâlcelul which is left to the Co?tilei (the anchor for the rappel ring is beat up in the tree, about 1 m.below).

Topo

Topo

Petit Jackson
Petit Jackson

Pictures


Sursă: Escamonde Ploiești

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursă: Escamonde Ploiești

Users who climbed the route


Bogdan Lazăr - 21.03.2021, Iarna
- 21.03.2021
Jabon - 23.02.2019, Iarna
- 23.02.20193 LC
Andrei Gurgu - 17.12.2016, Iarna
- 17.12.2016

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: The route starts from the Valley of the Co?tilei, once you get the first jumper (which can also be found), in an area of the wall clean, free from vegetation.
Retreat route: From the saddle we go towards the left side, and on the other side of the ridge, we followed a hiking trail Carpenter St., has mounted the fixed ropes, which are of great help as it saves us from having to use the cords of their own, which means surpîndu at any given time. After the completion of the string fixed across a a little time up in the mountain pass of the tree to the booster. From here:
either we are carrying out a dose of 20 meters and then get off the trail, among the junipers, until you arrive at the base of the ?ancului Small
either we are carrying out a dose of at least 6 m, if there is enough snow in the vâlcelul which is left to the Co?tilei (the anchor for the rappel ring is beat up in the tree, about 1 m.below).

Equipment


Sursă: Escamonde Ploiești

Comments