Today we celebrate Silviu Corciovei, who reached the beautiful age of 34 years. Happy birthday!. Today we celebrate 58 years since Traseul din Canionul Judele (Vârful Judele (Mare)) first ascent, 58 years since Custura cu Campanule din faţa Sud-Estică a Judelui (Vârful Judele (Mare)) first ascent, 58 years since Muchia Vârfului Mic (Vârful Judele (Mare)) first ascent, 58 years since Custura Judelui (Creasta Custurilor) (Vârful Judele (Mare)) first ascent, 49 years since Traseul Frontal (Creasta Nord-Estică) (Santinela Cheii) first ascent

Petit Jackson (Petit Jackson) M2
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 06.03.2019

General characteristics


Mixed climbing grade: M2
Type: Mixt

 Sursa foto si desen: Rupi. Data foto: 2.3.2019 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: N
Length: 4 pitches
Altitude: 1600 m
Height: 150 m
Recommended season: winter
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

SlabTreesGrass

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Cornel Sain


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Petit Jackson starts in the Valley of Co?tilei and continues on the north face of ?ancului Little up in strunga Herman Buhl. When I travelled the first time this route along with George, with a winter ago, it seemed extremely easy and beautiful. Mati was and he the route, but in conditions with less snow and on a route slightly different, so i had seemed more taricel. In the end, together we have traveled a route which combined the two experiences.

LC1 Between the wall and a large boulder in the valley we made a ramonaj easy, but interesting way to keep my axes and angles, to come out on a face down, strewn sometimes with tufts of grass (oh, how useful I am during the winter). After what I passed before I crossed under the line jnepenilor, continuing through the trees until the first regroup.

LC2 Of the little clearing we passed on the left, on one side, green roof on which I climbed about 30m. Here is the first belay station as we go along the first time Petit Jackson, but in our case the second. A year ago I had graduated directly on the face of the rocky vis-a-vis the refuge, but now it was covered with snow.
LC3: In pool starts slightly diagonally right, a wider one, that is located between the wall and the trees. I had two options to continue:

let's go until the end of the brânei, where it passed with the help of the trees in the back over a face easy overhangta, and then to perform a treversare the left (the variant known Mati);
let's go up to mid-brânei, where there is a small dihedral with a few pockets of grass (the version known to me).I passed the dihedral and we took a left, through the trees. I walk up to the third pool, which we made it to the trees before a crossings long: the last length of rope.

LC 4: On this length exposed not too there is the possibility of insurance, except for the portion of the final. They were, however, sufficient thresholds of grass that we don't worry that we can't use piole?ii on the approximately 50m.

Add-2019 (Break): you may put a friend in a pocket of 3-4 cm height in the wall on the left.
Information source
flutureledepiatra.ro - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2011/12/24/petit-jackson-refugiul-costila-iarna/
Rupi

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Track GPS:  - Tancul Mic.gpx
GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: At the refuge we descended into the Valley Co?tilei, I passed the first jumper (which was not yet covered with snow) and we tied in the cord to turn in the route.
Retreat route: From the saddle we go towards the left, on the other side of the ridge following a path where Cornel Sain mounted fixed ropes, which are of great use as it saves us from using the string's own, the trail surpîndu at a time. After finishing the string fixed across a small time reaching in strunga with the tree of the booster. Here:
- either run a booster 20m then off on the trail, among the junipers until we get to the base ?ancului Small,
- either run a booster of a minimum of 6m, if there's enough snow in valcelul that leave to Valea Costilei (python booster ring is beat up everything in the tree, about 1 m below).

Topo

Topo

Petit Jackson

Pictures


Sursa foto si desen: Rupi. Data foto: 2.3.2019

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursa foto si desen: Rupi. Data foto: 2.3.2019

Users who climbed the route


Adi Min - 23.02.2019, Iarna
- 23.02.20193 LC
Jabon - 23.02.2019, Iarna
- 23.02.20193 LC
Andrei Gurgu - 17.12.2016, Iarna
- 17.12.2016

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: At the refuge we descended into the Valley Co?tilei, I passed the first jumper (which was not yet covered with snow) and we tied in the cord to turn in the route.
Retreat route: From the saddle we go towards the left, on the other side of the ridge following a path where Cornel Sain mounted fixed ropes, which are of great use as it saves us from using the string's own, the trail surpîndu at a time. After finishing the string fixed across a small time reaching in strunga with the tree of the booster. Here:
- either run a booster 20m then off on the trail, among the junipers until we get to the base ?ancului Small,
- either run a booster of a minimum of 6m, if there's enough snow in valcelul that leave to Valea Costilei (python booster ring is beat up everything in the tree, about 1 m below).

Equipment


Sursa foto si desen: Rupi. Data foto: 2.3.2019

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