Mizantrotheosis 5B, 9- (7+/8-, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 30.09.2014
edited by Vasile Dumitrică la data de 04.09.2018

General characteristics

Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 7+/8-
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 9-
Type: Classic route

Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Length: 2 pitches
Altitude: 1650 m
Height: 100 m
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:


PitonsMechanical anchorsVerticalFace climbingFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Titus Gonţea, Cătălin Pădure
Date: 23.08.2010
Story: Link

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Accompanied by Catalin Forest (Old), we took the girdle from the base of the future trail, located to the left of Suzanne. My intention was to go through the front of the compact conglomerate by Hermann Buhl, after which I had to go over and to come out on top ?ancului. After 5 hours, very tense and intense, I managed to open the first length of 40m, with 8 insurance fixed, a python, and seven expansion bolts, the passages sometimes quite long and difficult, with sockets barely sketched, especially the legs.

If the first length has the appearance of a face compact with insurance rare but solid, the second length which took up all of about 5 hours, has a much more "classic", the first part being the dihedron of the departure on the last length of Hermann Buhl, exposed and easy overhangnt at the end, with a rock a little dirtier, above the with faces more compact and clean, and the route deviates slightly oblique right by a tree suspended, and then up and right again, with the small passages in vertical more exposed. The end of this lengths still 40m is on the tip of the ?ancului, where I assured him the Old man at some juniper trees thick (at the same point where from the right comes another route open to us here, Abyssus Inexpugnabilis).
Information source
Titus Gonţea - http://titusgontea.blogspot.ro/2010/08/alpinism-mizantrotheosis-2010.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Track GPS:  - Tancul Mic.gpx
GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    






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Users who climbed the route

Vasile Dumitrică - 25.08.2018, Vara
- 25.08.2018Traseu cu cățărare frumoasă, cu libere impuse de până pe la 7+/8- și bine asigurat pe poțiunile mai dificile. Pe a doua lungime asigurările pot fi suplimentate cu asigurări mobile medii (tricamuri, nuci).

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Chereches Cristian

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GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"